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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 8:09pm
The fuel tank is in a reasonable condition, not too pitted. Just needs to be stripped back to metal, filled if neccessary, sanded, etch primed and then top coats applied.
 
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 9:41pm
The Top frame is also fine, just needs stripping, priming and painting.....
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 9:47pm
Tool Box has been repaired before, functional, not perfect. Will probably cut out the complete back section and weld in a new piece. The rest including the hinge is all ok.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 9:54pm

Now for the nasty bits......... Broken Chain case(have spare), Rotten Rotor covers front and back.........

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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 9:59pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

Now for the nasty bits......... Broken Chain case(have spare), Rotten Rotor covers front and back.........

Just a point, i see the chain case has the word the gem embosed, series 1 machines were plain.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:02pm
Probably the worst case of tin worm I have ever seen, in a pretty substantial piece of tubing.......  
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:04pm
Hi Gareth, I know they are meant to be plain..... Cant find one though? Have a gem one for now, will just keep looking!
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:08pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

Hi Gareth, I know they are meant to be plain..... Cant find one though? Have a gem one for now, will just keep looking!
New ones off standen's come plain, just have an adjuster hole in the bottom which i think most series1's dont?, would need welding over, only problem is they were priced over 70 last time i asked.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:13pm
owwwwch 70.00 for that??? Im in the wrong job! It can stay with Gem on it for now....
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:16pm
Stripped to just a gearbox and jackshaft assembly....... Draining the oil at the mo, it resembles caramel...... thick and goooeeey! 
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:24pm
The next job will be to remove the wheels and attend to the rather loose wheel bearings and leaky oil seals. Any body ever done these before as I haven't? Is it an easy task or will there be injured fingers and bad language involved???
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:34pm
On the gearcase side changing the berring and seal is quite easy, however i'm fairly sure from memory on the otherside it involves stripping the gearbox out to do the berring. Take lots of photos, shouldnt be to bad.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:38pm
Oh joy...... deep joy...... not!!! Stripping gearbox sounds interesting..... sighs! At least I will get to see the inner workings and also check for other signs of damage.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:42pm
What happened to your Series 1, S1g??? Did you ever find a gearbox for it???
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:45pm
if you study the parts book and also the later series 5 workshop manual (avaliable of ebay and other places on cd rom) is very usefull. I'm 99% certain the gearbox will have to be stripped, but is so long scince ive done one i cant remember  sorry.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:47pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

What happened to your Series 1, S1g??? Did you ever find a gearbox for it???
its on hold at the moment, but  ive been promised one, all other bits are sorted.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:56pm
Dont be sorry! If its got to be done then so be it..... Will just have to put my logical head on and take my time. Do you have a copy of the parts book? Never had one, just some loose pages with a few drawings on. will have a look for the manual on that unmentionable site.....
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 10:59pm
pm me your address again and i'll run you a copy of the series 1 book off but cant do the workshop manual as i havent got a working cd rom at the moment. Also you will find some pdf manuals if you google weather data howard manuals.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2012 at 11:08pm
Have just ordered up a disc with the exploded diagrams on...... 3.40 incl postage. I will pm you my address. Thanks G!
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 07 Apr 2012 at 9:31pm
Hi Darren, heres a replacement rod we spoke about, the bolts are siezed at the second, if youre comming to collect it, then take the whole assembly, remove what you need and i'll have the rest back when we next meet some time.
 
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 07 Apr 2012 at 11:24pm
Cheers Gareth, Your a star! Looks in pretty good nick that one?
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 07 Apr 2012 at 11:40pm
Stripped the gearbox down today...... first venture into the inner workings of a Gem...... without any instructions or manual? Could be interesting.
Initial inspection reveals it seems to be serviceable. Will be replacing the bearings on the drive wheels and any other worn bearings before reassembly. The oil seals seem to be a 'felt' constuction in a metal sleeve. I dont think the replacements will be of the same construction though?
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 07 Apr 2012 at 11:50pm
I hope I get this back together....... Dont want any bits left!
Will take a trip to the bearing supplier on Tuesday, hopefully wont be too expensive. Needs both the left and right bearings and seals for the drive wheels. Also needs a Jackshaft bearing, gearbox side. The oil seal for the Clutch driveshaft has seen better days and is extremely loose. All the rest are sound with no play or noise.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 10:23pm
This is the shaft to which the clutch is mounted. It locates in the back of the flywheel in a bearing, note the severe wear caused to the shaft by the old seized bearing. Will either have this built up with weld and then machined back or have a sleeve made to fit. The second picture shows the oil seal which fits in the clutch bell housing, dont think it would stop much oil in its current state! 
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 10:40pm
This is the drive wheel oil seal from the gearbox case(removable side plate). It seems to be a felt gasket, but again isn't oil tight anymore. Not sure if this type of seal are available now, might have to be a modern equivilent. The second picture shows the drive wheel bearings, not identical. These bearings are a little noisey and loose. The third picture shows a Jackshaft bearing, This one is noisey too and is located in the gearbox case, where drive is transmitted through the Jackshaft. The fourth picture is the other drive wheel oil seal, still in its housing. Again this one leaks and needs replacing.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 10:46pm
This is the bearing which the clutch fork pushes against. I have never seen a bearing like this 3 piece before. Not sure if its meant to be this way? Perhaps one of the Howard experts could advise me???
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charliesfergy
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Quote charliesfergy Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 11:02pm
It's amazing quite how long machines like this can garry on working when theyre that worn/broken!
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 11:19pm
Over engineering at its best!
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Charlie
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Quote Charlie Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 7:15am
The oil seals are probably leather and should still be available. Similar seals are used on series Land Rover wheel hubs and either leather or modern type can be fitted.Leather is supposed to be softer and not wear the shaft. The clutch bearing should be like that, there is a very similar, but much smaller (only about an inch across), one on the Monro Tiller.
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Quote enginear Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 8:44am
A little tip for anyone replacing any oil seal wrap some cling film around the shaft and coat it with grease before sliding on the seal just make sure you remove all the cling film this will ensure you do not damage the seal lip when fitting, if you do not have any cling film use the thinnest plastic bag you have, also when trying to remove an oil seal drill two small holes in the seal and screw in two self tapping screw's then use two pair of side cutting plier's lift out the seal this way you will not mark the shaft as can happen using a screwdriver, whendoing this to a seal don't drill in to far or drill through the number's .
simple
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 10:28am
Good tip Enginear, will be extremely careful on reassembly....... Thanks for the advice Charlie, That 3 piece bearing, will it require any grease on reassembly or will the gearbox oil splashing around provide adequate lube? Considered smothering it in good quality LM grease........
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 10:08pm
Just bought myself this......... Have got lots of bits to remove rust and paint from. On the series 2 I used a grinder and wire wheels..... Made a lot of mess and covered everything in orange dust! Still finding things covered now 18 months later. Will be using fine recycled glass as the blast media 200 to 700 microns. should do the trick and not be affected by moisture. 
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Quote charliesfergy Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 10:11pm
theyre fantastic the little cabinets, Can i ask what size tank, HP and CFM air delivery your compressor is as you cant run the cabinets for more than thirty seconds on my 9cfm 2hp comp
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 10:16pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

Just bought myself this......... Have got lots of bits to remove rust and paint from. On the series 2 I used a grinder and wire wheels..... Made a lot of mess and covered everything in orange dust! Still finding things covered now 18 months later. Will be using fine recycled glass as the blast media 200 to 700 microns. should do the trick and not be affected by moisture. 
Moisture is a big killer of blast cabients, I have 4 moisture traps on mine, and totally drain the compressor before use, yet after an hour or two the moisture still stops it.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2012 at 10:19pm
This one says it it will run on a minimum 40 to 80 psi, @5CFM..... I have a small 30Ltr, 1.5HP, 9CFM Compressor that was a freebie 6 years ago, If its not up to the job then I will treat myself to a 50Ltr, 3HP, 14CFM That would be ok for small spray jobs too. Already have the gun etc.....  Gareth, Perhaps you should look into the recycled glass option as it doesnt absorb moisture, plus its cheaper and better for you and the enviroment. (The picture is for illustration as the one I bought had a copyright picture and couldnt pinch it)
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