The Top frame is also fine, just needs stripping, priming and painting.....

Now for the nasty bits......... Broken Chain case(have spare), Rotten Rotor covers front and back.........

Probably the worst case of tin worm I have ever seen, in a pretty substantial piece of tubing.......  

Stripped to just a gearbox and jackshaft assembly....... Draining the oil at the mo, it resembles caramel...... thick and goooeeey! 

On the gearcase side changing the berring and seal is quite easy, however i'm fairly sure from memory on the otherside it involves stripping the gearbox out to do the berring. Take lots of photos, shouldnt be to bad.

What happened to your Series 1, S1g??? Did you ever find a gearbox for it???

its on hold at the moment, but  ive been promised one, all other bits are sorted.

pm me your address again and i'll run you a copy of the series 1 book off but cant do the workshop manual as i havent got a working cd rom at the moment. Also you will find some pdf manuals if you google weather data howard manuals.

Hi Darren, heres a replacement rod we spoke about, the bolts are siezed at the second, if youre comming to collect it, then take the whole assembly, remove what you need and i'll have the rest back when we next meet some time.

Stripped the gearbox down today...... first venture into the inner workings of a Gem...... without any instructions or manual? Could be interesting.

This is the shaft to which the clutch is mounted. It locates in the back of the flywheel in a bearing, note the severe wear caused to the shaft by the old seized bearing. Will either have this built up with weld and then machined back or have a sleeve made to fit. The second picture shows the oil seal which fits in the clutch bell housing, dont think it would stop much oil in its current state! 

This is the bearing which the clutch fork pushes against. I have never seen a bearing like this 3 piece before. Not sure if its meant to be this way? Perhaps one of the Howard experts could advise me???

Over engineering at its best!

A little tip for anyone replacing any oil seal wrap some cling film around the shaft and coat it with grease before sliding on the seal just make sure you remove all the cling film this will ensure you do not damage the seal lip when fitting, if you do not have any cling film use the thinnest plastic bag you have, also when trying to remove an oil seal drill two small holes in the seal and screw in two self tapping screw's then use two pair of side cutting plier's lift out the seal this way you will not mark the shaft as can happen using a screwdriver, whendoing this to a seal don't drill in to far or drill through the number's .

Just bought myself this......... Have got lots of bits to remove rust and paint from. On the series 2 I used a grinder and wire wheels..... Made a lot of mess and covered everything in orange dust! Still finding things covered now 18 months later. Will be using fine recycled glass as the blast media 200 to 700 microns. should do the trick and not be affected by moisture.