Hi Titch, I like your style...... Thanks for the comment! Will email you.......

When you gonna start rotavating then ? 

I wouldnt worry as your other one ran very nicely.

Picked up the engine oil today. The BJ engine manual says to use Castrol XL, made a quick on the web and the modern equivilent is SAE30. Multigrade 20w/50 is acceptable according to most the vintage car and motorcycle sites I checked. This machine was completely stripped and all parts washed in parts wash solution. The parts were only lightly coated with oil during reassembly. Starting this up with little or no lubrication could possibly damage moving parts. Below is the method I use to bleed/prime the Lubrication system. I filled the Oil tank up to the return tube then opened the tap. I then loosened each of the unions on the oil pump until oil could be seen at each union. Once I had oil at the pump I then went to the Oil filter. I undid the lower union and filled this tube with oil and reconnected it to the filter. I then undid the bolt on the end of the Oil filter, tipped the machine forward and used a funnel to fill the Oil filter. Replace the bolt and tip the machine back, go to the Start handle. Lift the Decompressor lever and wind the Start handle briskly. Oil should almost immediately be seen returning to the tank.  This method ensures oil is forced onto the bearings and other moving parts as soon as the machine is started. The Gearbox oil arrived also today, Mail order SAE90 (EP free) as no one local could help me. Not cheap at £33 for 5 litres, but would rather not have problems later. 6 pints go into the Gearbox of a Gem.....

Oh Yes!!! It runs!!!

bet youre well chuffed, look forward to seeing the video.

Heres a short video of it running for only the 2nd time. Still needs a tiny bit of adjustment as it "hunts" a little when on full revs..... Want to let it run a bit more before fine tuning.

What can I say Darren.....

Hi Phil, as soon as it all finished there will be plenty of full photo's!!! Still not quite there. Have yet to reassemble the back end. Rotors, covers and Chaincase......

Parcels and Post today, The new blades, wear shoe and rear flap from Standens, I think the green will have to go! The new fuel tap arrived too from a company called Woolies Trim, new tap on the right.

I also rectified the problem with the clutch operating rod. It appears that the rod had been shortened on the threaded section during its life. This meant that once the clutch shaft was repaired and the clutch was in its correct position. The clutch lever no longer reached the operating rod. My solution was to cut a piece of flat steel, Drill a hole at one end to attach the clutch arm, and drill several smaller holes to connect to the operating rod. The extra holes will allow for adjustment of the clutch plate as it wears.

Had a bit of dirt from the fuel tank cause some rough running, This particular Gem doesnt have a fuel filter fitted in the tank, so I decided to buy some very fine woven brass mesh. I cut it to size and made a tube, soldered the tube together and added a bottom....... Once fitted into the tube where the tap is mounted on the tank I should have no more dirty fuel problems!

Hi Charlie, lets hope so! Eventhough I cleaned the tank thoroughly, I was still getting grit and dirt clogging the tap and carb. Engine would run for pethaps 5, 10 minutes then cut out. Kept finding a dry carb, no fuel running through the pipe. Perhaps I should have got some of the tank sealer?

Started stripping down a 2nd BJ Engine today. With the view to having a complete ready to run spare, just incase something bad ever happens.

Thankyou Rose's Dad, I will post up the most recent updates........

I have finally found someone locally who can weld cast, have had the spare valve chambers welded where they were cracked. This shows a repaired valve chamber, crack and with a new exhaust sleeve welded into place.

Grinding in the valves....... Inlet and then Exhaust.......