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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Topic: Restoration of Auto Culto Field Model L
    Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 9:21pm
Welcome to my latest project.it is the auto culto,made between 1926 and 1937.powered by the villiers MK 25 A engine. have been told that it is a field  model L .comes with wooden handle grips and a plough and also a cultivator.after lots of pulling we do not have a spark,so the first job is to test coil for resistance in ohms. test provides no resistance so a full strip down is required in the flywheel.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 30 Jun 2011 at 9:39pm
Wish i could find the time to  do as many restos as you do, I'm sure this one will to as high a standard as your last 3, look forward to seeing the end result.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 6:32pm
well i only spend 6 hours on average per week ,but when i start i keep at it and only consentrate on one machine at a time.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 7:52pm
all cowlings and flywheel removed reveals this .picture one. then i removed back plate complete to make it possible to remove laminate pick ups so that the coil can be removed later on in the next week when i get a replacement. picture two.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 01 Jul 2011 at 10:01pm
I'll add the detail of the cast in XI to the identification list.

As a tip, I've just got a can of Morris Lubricants Carb Cleaner, and it is excellent for cleaning up the old Villiers carbs, and any other bits as well! It's not cheap, but it does work really well.

Jim.
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 03 Jul 2011 at 3:35pm

with weather been good i have made a start on the plough attachment.the land wheel and its king pin where siezed solid.this has taken an hour and a half as i have no acess to bottles.with the rust being deep and crusty,again i have had to use the 4 inch grinder with flap disc and wire brush .have done a deal with george now and after he has processed the cheque etc i should have the coil for next weekend.the disc is siezed up so badly that i will take it to work and get help from one of the mechanics.having said that the disc has hardly had any wear and the mouldboard is similar.

Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 04 Jul 2011 at 8:24pm
tonight i have been removing the front weight rack and mountings for rubbing down. and have found paint which looks as if its been there from new.its the type of place which you would not visit if you where sprucing up . the colour has been eye matched by myself and two others and we all agree on the nearest match with the RAL colour cards.   the green colour is EMERALD GREEN RAL CODE 6001. this will be the one i will use.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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lawnmowerboy
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Quote lawnmowerboy Replybullet Posted: 04 Jul 2011 at 10:35pm
be VERY carfle with the point on those ploughs, the worst quality cast iron iv ever seen and i think iv had stronger eggshells than that    i had the exact same plough on my autoculto
Grow old, not up!!!
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 05 Jul 2011 at 12:39am
The point has gone on the plough for my model M. The plough on the Mk ix is based on a Ransomes unit, with a chilled Iron share, and that is very tough (has to be with all the flint around here).

Jim.
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 05 Jul 2011 at 7:43pm
yes i noticed this one had been welded when i was removing rust.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 08 Jul 2011 at 7:31pm
have recieved the coil from george at villiers parts and have refitted. if you get a new one they do not come with the points connection that is threaded,so the wires have to be soldered on. then i tried to start it,but it gave a cough out and fired once,then it gave up.instantly i had the feeling that compression was not all it could be,and removed head,   there was some slack as i moved piston in barrel,so then the head was removed to check gap on piston rings. removed a ring and inserted it back into barrel then put the feeler gauges between gap. this was a wopping 30 thou and so will get a pair of standard rings and refit.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 08 Jul 2011 at 7:58pm
The other thing to check is the crankcase seals, if they are worn then the engine will not create enough suction to draw petrol in. A lot of these old villiers relied on metal to metal fit to create a seal, if this is the case and they prove to be worn then you get into expensive and/or time consumming machining, one tempory solution can be to increase the oil ratio in the petrol mix.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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lawnmowerboy
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Quote lawnmowerboy Replybullet Posted: 08 Jul 2011 at 8:59pm
did some not use grease packed bearings as a seal
Grow old, not up!!!
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 7:37pm
Originally posted by series1gem

The other thing to check is the crankcase seals, if they are worn then the engine will not create enough suction to draw petrol in. A lot of these old villiers relied on metal to metal fit to create a seal, if this is the case and they prove to be worn then you get into expensive and/or time consumming machining, one tempory solution can be to increase the oil ratio in the petrol mix.
   thanks for that will increase to a 6 to 1 ratio if that problem occurs .
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 7:42pm
I would also use sae30 oil instead of a modern 2 stroke oil, I may be weird but I love the smell of an old 2 stroke running on a rich oil mix.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 7:44pm
a couple of shots ,the crank case with piston removed,and one of the cylinder head complete with manifolds. i am waiting now for ring kit before reassembly.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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enginear
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Quote enginear Replybullet Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 8:40pm
Originally posted by series1gem

The other thing to check is the crankcase seals, if they are worn then the engine will not create enough suction to draw petrol in. A lot of these old villiers relied on metal to metal fit to create a seal, if this is the case and they prove to be worn then you get into expensive and/or time consumming machining, one tempory solution can be to increase the oil ratio in the petrol mix.
don't put too much oil in or you risk a seizure.
simple
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 8:58pm
Originally posted by enginear

Originally posted by series1gem

The other thing to check is the crankcase seals, if they are worn then the engine will not create enough suction to draw petrol in. A lot of these old villiers relied on metal to metal fit to create a seal, if this is the case and they prove to be worn then you get into expensive and/or time consumming machining, one tempory solution can be to increase the oil ratio in the petrol mix.
don't put too much oil in or you risk a seizure.
If its far too rich thenyes you could get a siezure, as oil burns hotter than the fuel and too much will also increase drag, I wouls aim for around 16:1 as original or just slightly richer.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 10 Jul 2011 at 10:45pm
Original is 20:1, so yes, about 16:1 would be a good move.

Having done quite a bit of reading on oils recently, and how some modern additives can "disagree" with older type bearing materials, I would recommend using a straight mineral oil SAE30 for the two stroke mix. I've gone back to this for my old machines, and they all seem fine, though I suspect I will also need to go back to regular decokes.

I feel another addition to the register pages, as there is quite a bit of oil info that I've gathered recently, that others may find useful.

Jim.
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 14 Jul 2011 at 5:47pm
have finally got the wheels free so that they can be taken off the axels. i have been spraying WD40 for two weeks as we have more than enough rust it has taken a good dose of  14 lb hammer to shift them. a word of warning     ONLY HIT THE REAR OF WHEEL HUB LIGHTLY AS THEY ARE MADE OF CAST IORN . have also started to rub down handle bars while the rings arrive,first impressions are i may have to fill some deep pitted iorn although its not what i would prefer.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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ransomesmg6
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Quote ransomesmg6 Replybullet Posted: 15 Jul 2011 at 8:19am
heres a Picture for trusty bloke, this might not be quite right, but heres a photo of the carb anyway!



Remember!!
Nothing runs like a Deere!!
But..
Nothing trots like a Horse!!
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 18 Jul 2011 at 9:24pm
made some more progress over weekend. plough and disc painted and also barrel and cylinder head. have used galvanised touch up paint to give the plough the look of being worked. liked the colour so much that i did the barrel and head also.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 19 Jul 2011 at 7:28pm
just for the record ,i have matched up the red on the drive wheels and the plough travel wheel. it is CARMINE RED  RAL NUMBER    3002 . also have now got the engine running after fitting new coil and piston rings.it took me say thirty pulls of rope and an adjustment of points before the sweet sound came from the engine. some people have said that these machines are as noisey as the simar but i have not found this. i have organised a man to sand blast the machine for  20 and then the painting process can begin.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 11 Aug 2011 at 6:23pm
just an update as i have been doing other things lately.the paint which the last person has used is a real beast to remove,and work removing it has become rather slow.when you get a good look at it close up the only paint which reminds me of this is SAND TEXTURED MASONARY PAINT.now admittedly it has protected it,but not a pleasure to remove so this renovation is now behind. Thumbs%20Down
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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roatavator
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Quote roatavator Replybullet Posted: 11 Aug 2011 at 7:51pm
[QUOTE=ransomesmg6] heres a Picture for trusty bloke, this might not be quite right, but heres a photo of the carb anyway!


Would I be right in thinking that's an Amal carb, like on the Simar?

Simars rule OK
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 11 Aug 2011 at 9:04pm
hello .answer to your question on carb is,that this one is a villiers and i am not sure of model,but i am sure that jim from the register may be able to help,or anyone who has owned one on the auto culto list that jims collated.so sorry that i am unable to shed any light,but i am sure someone will come to your aid.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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Reiver
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Quote Reiver Replybullet Posted: 11 Aug 2011 at 9:46pm
Hello,
         I believe the carburettor on the 25A is a villiers  'middleweight' type 5/0 .
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 13 Aug 2011 at 8:18pm
i am glad for that info and i am sure that roatavator will be pleased to have some info to.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 14 Aug 2011 at 7:23am
as i was removing the tool box from the front of machine,i noticed that part of the frame was missing. this only carrys the tool box but was noticeable,so the thinking cap went on and i came up with my solution. i made a cardboard template of the good side and reversed it onto some suitable ply board. after carefull cutting out with jigsaw,i then araldited it to the damaged area,and covered with body filler.the picture shows the replacement but in a raw form.will post finished product later.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 14 Aug 2011 at 8:12pm
have now used my recycling program on the tool box support.you would hardly notice if you went past it on a galloping horse in the dark !!!!!!!
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 25 Aug 2011 at 9:36pm
another update on restoration.parts are being painted with a brush and now the machine is becoming recognisable.have got a few dints and dings to fill on the petrol tank,but this is understandable after many years of hard labour.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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TonySpriet
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Quote TonySpriet Replybullet Posted: 29 Aug 2011 at 10:35am
Hello John, you becoming one of the best in here, as always you did a very fine job mate.
Very nice and old machine you have thereThumbs%20Up
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 29 Aug 2011 at 8:39pm
hi tony.you are so kind with your comments.thank you,but i am sure that there are others who can atchieve a good standard of workmanship on this forum.but thank you very much.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 29 Aug 2011 at 8:50pm
credit where credits due, you allways do a superb job john.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 29 Aug 2011 at 9:47pm

thanks gareth,i am marching on at the moment,but the handle bars and wheels are in bad shape so i guess thats going to take me well into winter 2011 /2012

Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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