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TITCH
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Quote TITCH Replybullet Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 10:45pm
Primer Filler Spraypaint.
 
It's good!
Restorations Final Touch!
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 30 Jan 2012 at 9:02pm
How do you work out 1956 from the serial no: ? my serial no is 12862 I always presumed it was machine 128 from 1962....I'm most amused today! I presume to be wrong now!
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Ransomes256
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Quote Ransomes256 Replybullet Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 7:52am
Serial numbers are just serial numbers and are listed in various publications.
12862 is a 1958 machine.
Neil
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 3:39pm
Thanks for that Neil,
I really must stop presuming stuff.....Big%20smile
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 02 Feb 2012 at 10:38pm
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 02 Feb 2012 at 10:41pm
Still working on stripping the gearbox out of mine. Should be ready for sandblasting soon. Any do's or dont's????
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 13 Feb 2012 at 10:28pm
Still looking for advice on painting gentlemen..... Should I give it a coat of something to kill the rust first or just go with a primer after the sand blasting?
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 14 Feb 2012 at 4:12pm
I have tried various so called Rust stop treatments before and never found them to be any good, altough use them if you feel you want to! after a good sandblasting first prime with an etching primer, this actually eats into the metal slightly and has rust inhibitors that give good adhesion then I usually build up a couple of good coats of primer, let dry and fill any areas you want to smooth out, after sanding these areas they may look smooth to the eye, If for example I used grey primer, I would spray over filled and sanded area in another colour say black, just a light coat, then when dry sand over, any black colour left indicates low areas and areas that may need adjusting.
I then give another couple coats primer, sometimes giving a wet rub in between with 1200 Wetndry
Then a couple of coats of topcoat sometimes three depending on type of paint, I am not a huge fan of new water based paints as I feel they leave a thinner coat than say 2 pack.
again smoothing with wet n dry between coats if you want,to go all out once this lot is dry then give it a cut back with some cutting compound and a polish.
Basic paint tip is the more time you spend or patience you have tends to give better results.
If you are sending out to get sandblasted the blasters normal give it a primer once it is blasted to reduce the time the metal is open to air. rule of thumb is dont sandblast what you cant paint same day. after about half an hour from sandblasting metal can form a flash coat of rust invisible to the eye. 
Tom
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 9:51pm
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 9:52pm
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 9:53pm
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 9:58pm
I am strongly considering cutting out this very badly rusted section and welding in a new one. I wanted to keep it original but nearly half the thickness of the metal is gone. What are the opinions? Also have found some ransome blue , see next set of pictures. Is it possible these parts were originally this colour.I can also make out the white pin stripe line around the edge of the machine under the existing coat of paint. 
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 9:59pm
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 10:00pm
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 10:01pm
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 22 Feb 2012 at 10:02pm
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 23 Feb 2012 at 7:27am
Your floor is better than mine, the hole for the sump plug on mine is oval and the metal is so thin its peppered ! I am going to have to cut mine out and weld in a new plate, I havent done it yet as I haven't made my mind up if I should go to the sides ( might hide the patch better) or go to the angle along the side! but regardless of what I do its going to need done.
Tom
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 23 Feb 2012 at 9:08pm
I will take mine out to the outside to make it less noticeable. The inside part of the drive wheel is in very poor condition on mine as well and is going to need replacement as well. Not a handy job.....
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 25 Feb 2012 at 10:41pm
Any one any experience of using zinc 182 primer?
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expeatfarmer
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 23 Mar 2012 at 12:54pm
Hi
Just to let you know that I have a workshop manual for this machine if it is of help I could have it copied. I have a WR4 dumper and most recently a WR8 loader.
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 26 Mar 2012 at 10:07pm
Hi,
do you have the dumper specific manual or is it the ransome mg6 manual? If its the dumper one I would love a copy. Any photos of your machines?
David
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expeatfarmer
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 27 Mar 2012 at 12:52pm
Hi David
The book I have is a Whitlock parts manual that covers both the WR4 dumper and the WR8 loader.
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Ransomes256
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Quote Ransomes256 Replybullet Posted: 27 Mar 2012 at 8:14pm
Both,
The Ransomes dumper is a different arrangement to the Whitlock.
 
Neil
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 01 Apr 2012 at 10:31pm
Hows your dumper getting on ? have you welded the floor yet? I am waiting on the pictures before starting mine! Wink I now have the gearbox rebuilt and started stripping down the engine today, thankfully it doesn't need much more than a clean and gasket set.
 
Tom
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 03 Apr 2012 at 9:00pm
Got it shot blasted , primed and filled. Then sander went on the blink so had to buy a new one. Been busy with work the last 2 weeks so hoping to get back at it later this week. I have not made up my mind on the floor yet as it is solid and wont be visible when the engine is fitted. Think I may prefer to keep it original. Any thoughts???Confused
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 04 Apr 2012 at 7:54am
I know what you mean, the engine sits on the angle iron not the rusty floor, still think I am going to do mine but not until I have the bolt ons refurbed as I am struggling for room, going to do most of the components the chassis.
Tom
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 02 May 2012 at 9:07pm
In the next picture does anyone know what the 4 holes in the mud guard are for?
They go right through the track bogie and have a nut welded on to the back here for threading a bolt into. Any ideas?Confused
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 02 May 2012 at 9:08pm
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Dieselhead
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Quote Dieselhead Replybullet Posted: 02 May 2012 at 9:32pm
I think its for a casting where a dozer blade pivots
 
Is there one the other side??
Chris. I aint getting on no plane. Fool!
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 02 May 2012 at 10:55pm
Did the blade not go all the way to the rear before pivot point? I am sure any pictures I have seen of the blade it is almost a wrap around construction, is it for a step?, as the dumper is reverse drive and on wide tracks?
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Quote wristpin Replybullet Posted: 02 May 2012 at 11:18pm
I'm no expert on painting (hate doing it!) but I am told that High Build Primer Filler could be useful!
Found aerosols on Amazon but presume it can be bought cheaper "in bulk" for spraying.

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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 03 May 2012 at 10:54pm
I have no idea what they are for. To be honest I had accidentally filled them in with isopon and only re discovered them when sanding. After an hour of going through parts boxes trying to remember what they were for I decided to look back through the photographic record of the strip down. Good old digital cameras, my memory was not letting me down, I never had anything bolted through them...... I hope..................EmbarrassedEmbarrassedEmbarrassedEmbarrassed
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 04 May 2012 at 9:42am

your mind plays trick on you too, after reading on the forum about ransome clutch, discussion about the right and wrong way to re-assemble, at first I new I had built mine back in the correct way, two days later I had convinced myself to strip it all down again just to check... I had it right... bugger... Confused

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Quote crawler Replybullet Posted: 04 May 2012 at 1:27pm
Dieselhead is correct, that is where the 'fulcrum bracket' bolts to the side of the crawler. This was used for the 'Ramdozer' and front mounted tool frame.
Sdarmstrong, did you manage to get something sorted for the rubber track pads?
Rob
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 05 May 2012 at 12:48pm
No not had any luck finding a glue yet.
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