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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 05 May 2012 at 12:52pm
Originally posted by sdarmstrong

No not had any luck finding a glue yet.
Try contacting Loctite, in the past theyve been very helpfull with suggesting the correct stuff to use
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 05 May 2012 at 6:41pm
Wow.. What a great project, me likeyThumbs%20Up
Good luck with it dude, looks like you've made a cracking start.
My UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel

http://www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBloke
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 08 May 2012 at 11:29pm
Yeah on a bit of a go slow at the moment though...... May get back at it this week.
Will give locktite a try. Thanks
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 09 Jul 2012 at 10:55pm
Not posted any pics for a while so hear comes a few...
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 11 Jul 2012 at 10:13pm
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 11 Jul 2012 at 10:22pm
As can be seen the rust on these wheels is quite bad.......
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 11 Jul 2012 at 10:25pm
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 11 Jul 2012 at 10:30pm
Ready for the blaster....
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 11 Jul 2012 at 10:34pm
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 11 Jul 2012 at 10:40pm
So thats where its at. All blasted, primed, filled and reprimed again. Have the new inner rims made and just ready now for welding back on. Getting ready for final paint colour next. 
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DevonNewbie
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Quote DevonNewbie Replybullet Posted: 12 Jul 2012 at 11:08am
Looks like you have done a very skilful job cutting off the old rims. I wouldn't have know where to start.

Great job 
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 13 Jul 2012 at 7:54am

bloody hell ! thought you hadn't been at it much..... you have done loads more, I am so not keeping up with mine, but it is looking good, Thumbs%20Up 

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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 13 Jul 2012 at 6:49pm
Ah getting there slowly . Hoping to get the final drives cleaned up this week for priming.
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 23 Jul 2012 at 11:10pm
Tried cleaning up a few rusty bits in brick cleaner as suggested on a thread on the forum..... Stripped the threads off a few nuts EmbarrassedEmbarrassedEmbarrassed Be careful of this stuff!!!CryCryCry
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MGmagic
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Quote MGmagic Replybullet Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 8:03pm
I can highly recommend decox C for rust removal. It comes as a white crystallised power which you mixed with water in various ratios depending on the level of rust removal required. It was featured in the clubs Cultivator magazine a few issues back. I have successfully treated numerous parts including nut & bolts some of which you can see in my MG40 project posting. For example in the photo below the top lift arm has been emersed for 20 hours. It looked like the bottom lift arm before treatment. The process has the added benefit of producing zero dust, using near zero elbow grease being not toxic and biodegradable. Thank you to fellow club member DH and Ardingly for the arms.

I can't see brick cleaner having a positive effect on man, machine or enviroment as most are in effect an acid.
A few Ransomes MGs...
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 9:47pm
The trouble with Deox C is the fact that after little use the solution is finished, it is very good for delicate parts, I currently have my Brake control levers immersed in the stuff, it looked good value @ 1 kilo for 20 litres mix, however a mix doesn't last, the brick acid can be re-used time and time again but as with all Acids care needs to be taken. personaly I still think Brick Acid out performs any other rust remover on heavy items, the arms in the picture would of been paint and rust free in approx 18-24 hours for not much more than a tenner, and Deox C can't do that in the time or budget with the same result. It is all down to personal preference, Sorry to hear about your Nuts SdArmstrong, the worst one I found was the sump bolts, they powdered as soon as the spanner touched them. Geek
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MGmagic
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Quote MGmagic Replybullet Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 10:25pm
It took 50grams of decoxC to achieve this result. That equates to 65 pence including vat. The second rusty arm in the picture is now in the same solution. Its all down to correct use and a little attention to detail.
A few Ransomes MGs...
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 26 Jul 2012 at 10:39pm
Hi lads , not given up on the brick cleaner yet!! Currently have some parts soaking in it, just made sure no threads are in contact with it.....
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expeatfarmer
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 28 Jul 2012 at 10:56am
Hi
I think I may have cracked the rubber gluing issue, I have been searching for the heavy rubber bump strips off the dumper and eventually found a company that supply both rubber and glue. Company is called technix-rubber.co.uk.

Currently waiting for the bits to arrive and will let you know how I get on.
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 28 Jul 2012 at 8:46pm
Good stuff. Keep me posted please!
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expeatfarmer
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 29 Jul 2012 at 9:39pm
Will do, I have ordered the bump stop rubbers for under the skip awaiting delivery.
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 10:56pm
Hi Jonathon , any updates on the glue?
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expeatfarmer
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 12:57pm
Hi, Yes I have just obtained the glue and rubber blocks, it is a two pack glue called BridgeBond manufactured by Bridge Rubber and Plastics Ltd.
The instructions are to cover both faces with a thin layer which you allow to dry, apply a second coat to each and allow to go tacky and then fix.

I have yet to actually use it, but the rubber blocks i have appear to be an identical rubber to the dumper tracks.

Regards
Jonathan
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 12 Sep 2012 at 12:14am
Any photos ?
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 4:14pm
Anyone any thoughts on whether I should leave the engine on the dumper in blue to match the steering levers or spray it the same as the dumper ?
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 13 Sep 2012 at 6:48pm
Thats a personal opinion....Big%20smile I would have it all the same colour if it was mine, when I was tinternet surfing last week I came across a picture of a dumper the same as yours all in Ransome blue,, looked spec.
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 30 Sep 2012 at 10:30pm
Long awaited for rollers turned by a mate...
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ploughmen
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Quote ploughmen Replybullet Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 8:42pm
what is the measurement across that new wheel rim outside measurement please .I,ve got mine both to do but thay are in better shape than yours,i am going to weld them , and machine them back to the right size
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Ransomes256
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Quote Ransomes256 Replybullet Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 9:45pm
Original drive and idler wheels are 18 1/4" diameter
Neil
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ploughmen
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Quote ploughmen Replybullet Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 6:34pm
thanks Neil
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 23 Jan 2013 at 1:23pm
Finally back to work on this ! Got the wheels welded back together last night. They are now covered in oil and gunk which I need to remove before I prime them again. What's the best cleaner to leave them ready for priming ?
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 23 Jan 2013 at 6:46pm
Panel wipe, I use acetone first but then again I have a shed load of the stuff for work, good de-grease and panel wipe will be fine.
 
Hoping to get back to mine soon.
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 29 Jan 2013 at 10:19pm
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sdarmstrong
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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 29 Jan 2013 at 10:20pm
So thats what the inside of a final drive looks like!!
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Brian Watts
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Quote Brian Watts Replybullet Posted: 31 Jan 2013 at 7:54pm
Great piece you have, would love to find something similar

I will follow your build
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