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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Topic: Wheel Horse Raider 20 6X6
    Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 3:15pm
Hi Guy's n Girl's thought I'd show you my ongoing (and has been  for over 2 years) Wheel Horse Raider 20 6X6 skid steer project.

This project arrived as a part ex for a Wheel Horse I sold on Fleabay, infact when it arrived there was nothing "Raider" about it..
It was more of a C-125!!




Not being a fan of the "black hood" Wh's I thought I would change the body work to make it look like an early Raider but still with the C-125's rear mounted fuel tank.

A marriage of old and new 'orse parts..




With rear tank fitted.




And all the Raider body panels on..




Enter Garry with some bottled inspiration..Thumbs%20Up




And the "idea" was born..


My UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel

http://www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBloke
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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 3:54pm
Now came the fun part, turning the idea into something that could be made..

Now fitting 6 wheels is all well and good as long as there is some space left to put your feet.. So first job (which took quite a long time) was to make some longer wheel hub thingys to space the rear wheel out a bit..

So on the lathe went a section of old pillar drill leg.



Throw in some scribbled plans..




And one side done..




Of course being as they are wheel hubs something was needed to actually  bolt the wheels on to..

Starting with a rather big and heavy slab of steel..
Seen here with a strip sliced off.




On the lathe it goes..




Taking shape.




Ta-Daa.




It fits the wheel a treatThumbs%20Up




Yet more lathe work saw a smaller square of steel turned into a hub thingy for bolting a brake disc.




Many months, two house moves and two WorkShack builds later work started on this project again!!




The extended wheel hub parts together.




Due to all sorts of problems caused by using Kawasaki Z200 front brake discs I decided to fit some Kawasaki Gpz 305 front discs instead..

Trouble was they wouldn't fit the hub thingys I had made to fit the other discs!




Enter some thick-ish flat plate.




Yet more lathe time!!




It fits!




With a little trim of the old brake hub thingy..




It all fits togetherSmile




Now the sharp eyed amongst you will of noticed a key way cut inside the wheel hub extension thingy..

These key ways took me over 30 hours each to cut on the lathe!!

 

A lot of time but a lot cheaper than paying for a machine shop to cut them!




Only one thing left to do.. Weld all the wheel hub parts together..






My UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel

http://www.youtube.com/user/UkWheelHorseBloke
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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 4:15pm
Let's take a break from all that lathe work for a while and have a look at the chassis instead..

To fit the six wheels on the chassis needed to be made a bit longer, 9 3/4 to put a length on it.




Some welding action.




The old front axle pivot point wasn't needed, so off it came..




Chop chop for these bits as well.




A stripped bare chassis




Best add some steel back on then. Here's Garry sporting the latest fashion in lower chassis railsI'm most amused today!




A double height chassis. At this point all the extra metal has only been tack welded in place.




A couple of very long masking tape labels with lots of measurements marked out..

 


More to follow shortly, I've got to go and get dinner started..
My UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel

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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 5:18pm
Sorted.. Tonight's dinner is cooking Smile

Where was I? Oh yes the chassis.

To give you an idea of quite what I have in mind here's a rough plan..
I say rough because I'm not really one for drawing plans and building from them. I'm more of a "throw it all in a pile and work it out from there" kinda guy.. Also any plans I do draw up tend to change a lot anyway!!

The red bits are the original Wh chassis and trans, everything else is extra metal to go on.




And then I realized that my lathe was not long enough to to make the front and middle axles!!!
So chassis plan B!




Jumping back to the extended rear hubs for a mo, they both needed one extra part to make them complete, something to spin in the outer bearing.

So.. back to the lathe..




And finally shrunk fit into the rest of the rear hub extension thingys.




While on the subject of bearings, I knew that I could not buy quite what I had in mind without them costing me a fortune (Yes this is very much a budget build), so the time had come for some measuring and scribbling..

 


Closely followed by the more "pleasing to the eye" computerized version.




Once the bearings had arrived..




Work could start on making 10 bearing holder!

As cut on the left, and cleaned up on the right.




Some time later....




With bearings fitted.




A view of the inside..




And while on a certain page of my potatobucket account I might as well throw in some "daft shack moments" photos Wink

Not quite Charlies Angels, but well on the way!!



Warning Kid's.. Using too much red oxide primer can have this effect on you!!




Still under the influence of the paint, Garry then gave us his rendition of "Tubular Hammers"!!




I just thought it was safer to hide in a big bucket!



Well, at least until Garry stopped playing the hammersSmile


Anyway, back to the chassis..
Once I'd sold a few things I then had the cash to order some nice new box steel..




Best start cutting it up then Big%20smile
The outriggers soon got cut the length.




Here's me trying to cut some opening in the box while also trying to set my shirt on fire!!




Hole drilling time. One jig for the bearing block bolt holes.




And one for the big hole.




Ah.. So that's how crop circles are made!




Cut out.




And finished off with a flap wheel in a drill.


My UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel

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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 6:42pm
Getting bored yet?
I hope not as there's loads more to come..Smile

With the outrigger sliced and drilled I now had to work out the correct positions for them.
On went the rear hubs and bearing blocks followed by the outriggers.




Lot's of careful measuring and clamping.




Then a frame was welded to the outriggers and chassis and bolted to the bench.
At this point the project looked like a bed frame with a gear stick Smile






Now came the fun part of working out how to attach the outriggers but making the removable..
It's a bit hard to explain, but here we go..

Slice off a couple of bit's of this.




And a couple off of this..




Trim to fit, clamp them around another big off cut, and weld them up.




Ok, maybe that didn't explain things too well.. But if I throw in a couple of bit's of box (like this one being cut) then things might become clearer.




This should help even more.




A close up, The two bits of flat steel have been tack welded to the outrigger to increase the amount of steel to drill and tap through.




Like this but with proper bolts. Just need to "come across" some right size off cuts to weld on instead of the two odd bits.




Lot's more cutting, clamping and welding happened..




Time to investigate a possible problem at the O/S rear. For this the engine needed to be fitted. Enter Rob with the er.. engine chair wheel rim trolleySmile




Engine on.. At the time the plan was to use this 12hp Kohler, but as you might of guessed from this threads title, the plan has changed a little bit.
More on the engine fun and games later.




With the engine on we could not resist quickly throwing on a few panels and a wheel in the only place one would fit..
Looks a bit strange!!





My UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel

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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 7:00pm
Right chap's last part for now as dinner is almost cooked.

The possible problem on the O/S rear was where the drive belt runs.
as you can see here I would have to make a removable section to fit the drive belt, not something I liked the idea of!




Also the belt was right in the way for the lower bit of box to be welded on!




Lot's of head scratching and phone calls later the problem was solved.

A couple of weeks later Rob and I took a trip up to sunny near Swindon with a box of tools, and returned with the rear half of a Wheel Horse C-175 which happens to be a hydro.




With the body removed you can see the rear end in all it's glory..
You see, on a hydro the pump in right on top of the trans, which means the drive belt sits a lot higher up than a manual trans..
High enough in fact to clear all the clearance problems in one hit Big%20smile




This left the problem of working out how to fit all the hydro controls.




In this narrow Raider body!!




But your have to wait for the "cunning plan", It's time for dinnerThumbs%20Up

My UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel

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Quote Simon Smith Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 7:17pm
Looking good so far, not that I would ever modify a wheelhorse of course.
Well not that much.
Ok yes I would  Thumbs%20Up
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Quote booomer Replybullet Posted: 17 Apr 2012 at 8:29am
That is awesome, where abouts in the country are you? no where near Herefordshire i bet!
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 06 May 2012 at 10:00am
Originally posted by Simon Smith

Looking good so far, not that I would ever modify a wheelhorse of course.
Well not that much.
Ok yes I would  Thumbs%20Up


Thanks Simon, that's quite a compliment from a chap with your fine WH building skills.



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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 06 May 2012 at 10:11am
Originally posted by booomer

That is awesome, where abouts in the country are you? no where near Herefordshire i bet!


Thanks Booomer, sorry your right, I'm nowhere near your neck of the woods, I'm down in (not so sunny at the mo) Hawkhurst, Kent.

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Quote Dieselhead Replybullet Posted: 06 May 2012 at 10:15am
Are you going to call it ArgoHorse!
 
Looking forward to seeing it some dayThumbs%20Up
Chris. I aint getting on no plane. Fool!
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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 06 May 2012 at 10:33am
Right chaps, at the end of my last update I was about to have dinner..
The good news is dinner was fine and yet more work has been done on this project.Big%20smile
Also at the end of my last update I was wondering how to fit all the hydro controls in the skinny Raider body..

A quick bit of measuring of the Raider body and the C-175 body showed they were withing a couple of mm's of being the same width..




Some careful measuring and marking out..




Chopped!




Raider top and C-175 base.




Lot's of welding later...




Then I noticed a slight mistake!!
The body bit should be the same of higher than the red bit in the middleErmm




A quick dig through my "might come in handy one day" box of bits produced a couple (only one really pictured) of bit's I'd cut off the C-175 body.




So I welded them back on.




External flanges cut off and the Raider internal ones welded on.




A bit of trimming..






And the hydro controls now fitted in the Raider body.
I'm going to make a cover to hide the end of the workings.




One small missing bit to add, and a bent out bit to slice off..




Ta-Daa..




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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 06 May 2012 at 11:16am
Originally posted by Dieselhead

Are you going to call it ArgoHorse!
 
Looking forward to seeing it some dayThumbs%20Up


That would be a cool name for it Dieselhead, if it wasn't named already..
It's a Raider 20 6x6 Automatic.

Interesting that you should mention "argo".. Your see why..


It's engine time..

The original plan was to use a 12hp Kohler..




Until the urge for more power took over..
This urge resulted in a cheap Fleabay buy that was a bit of a risk!

The new engine arriving at the Workshack via Wheel HorseBig%20smile




Inside this rather tasty box is...




A Kohler Magnum 18hp  twin that came out of a.. Yep, you've guessed it, an Argocat.Smile
It arrived in kit form!




The engine went straight on the bench.. It turned over by hand ok, but the valves on side would not move!
Off came the barrels for a look, can't see anything wrong!!




Best crack the engine case open then..




Engine parts everywhere.  Can you spot the problem part?




Hhhmm... Looks like the camshaft has lost a few teethConfused




The busted cam and the really deep rust pitting in this barrel made this engine very expensive to rebuild.. To expensive for my taste, so the engine was stashed away should I ever come across the right parts cheap enough.. You never know Smile




So.. onto engine number three..

A very lucky Fleabay find.. A Kohler Magnum 20hp with under an hours use under it's belt.
The story goes that this engine was bought new by a company down in Rye as a spare for one of their machines..
They never used it and sold it to a chap who bought it as a spare for a wood chipper..
He never used it other than starting it once in a while to keep the moving bits free..
And thus it ended up on Fleabay and in my Shack.




A view from the back.




Yep, that is a tapered shaft.. It should make fitting a pulley more interestingSmile




More to follow in a little while..
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Quote Dieselhead Replybullet Posted: 06 May 2012 at 12:14pm
I have got a spare block for engine number 2
 
PM if your interested.
 
Engine no 3 would be better if you can sort the crank
Chris. I aint getting on no plane. Fool!
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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 06 May 2012 at 1:15pm
Thanks for the offer Dieselhead (are you Chris? I can't decide if that's a quote or not?),  I am interested not for a few months as funds are a bit tight.

Ah.. Engine number 3, time to sort the crank.

Now I'm not a trained machinist, far from it. Every time at the lathe is a learning experience. Even though I have turned up loads of parts for this machine, each part is make with a mixture of luck, careful measuring (most of the time) and a large lump of logic.

The engine pulley was by far the most complicated bit of turning to date.
I expect I could of bought an "off the shelf" pulley to fit the tapered crank, trouble is I decided to make life difficult by wanting to fit the Wheel Horse PTO pulleys to the engine as wellErmm

I find that one of the most useful tools to have is a roll of masking tape.
and thus it came in useful once again to measure the taper right at the end of the crank.




Lot's of scribbling!!






To give myself an idea of what the finished parts should look like I had a play with Google Sketch-up, a bit like autocad but free Thumbs%20Up






Not having a big enough lathe or a big enough chunk of steel to make this in one part, it had to be made in two.

Starting with the pulley bit.

Cutting through this 1 1/2" thick slab of steel was, shall we say.. Not fun!




Only a hacksaw will go where a grinder can't reach..




Cut at last.




Celebrate with a coffeeBig%20smile




Then once the center had been marked the corners got the chop.




It all started with a small hole!!




Getting there.




An action shot.




One side done.




Both sides done Smile


My UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel

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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 06 May 2012 at 2:13pm
Time to get "in the groove"I'm most amused today!




Having the right size engine pulley to match a hydro (seen here on a Kohler KT-17 engine with a busted con rod and two holes punched through the block (as bought)) was very handy for taking measurements from.




Something old and something new.




Nothing borrowed but something is blueSmile




Now the fun bit.. The part the makes the pulley fit the tapered shaft.
I did start making one of these parts a long time ago, but found "feeling quite rough" and lathe work don't mix as I cut the bearing shaft too small!




Take 2.

A length of steel bar was cut from an old pillar drill leg.
As seen here through a video camera. (Did I mention I like to make videos?)




On the lathe it goes.




A long while later..




That's the outside bit done.




It's taper time. In goes the drill bit.




Followed by the boring bar thingy.




A small taper cut.




The "fit" is almost there, just need to tweak the angle a wee tad.




A few tweaks later had the perfect angle found, so out came loads of material.




Will it fit??




You bet your 'orse it doesBig%20smile






A slight design change on the center part meant the pulley had to have some more taken out the hole.




Once the bearing surface was polished up, this part went and chilled in the freezer for a good few hours.




The pulley part went and "un-chilled" on top of the wood burner until it was hot enough to boil spit.. well I wasn't going to waste any coffee on itBig%20smile




You can guess the next stage.. Cold meets hot and they chill together until they are inseparable.

 


I was sooo chuffed when I saw how good a match the end of the taper and the hole in the were.




PTO clutch plate on.




And the Wheel Horse PTO pulleys..
A lot of work but for me worth it.




If your interested here's a video of the engines first start in my ownership.
The engine action starts about the 4 min mark.
In case your wondering about the smoke, it's only oil I had put down the bores to keep the engine free.

Just copy and paste the link into your internet browser.
Enjoy.

http://youtu.be/-Vj4fRSlC_U
My UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel

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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 06 May 2012 at 3:21pm
ClapClap Very impressive tooling skills, and enjoyable comedy thrown in.
 
Tom
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Stigian
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 26 May 2012 at 2:01pm
Originally posted by Thomas

ClapClap Very impressive tooling skills, and enjoyable comedy thrown in.
 
Tom


Thanks Tom, good to know someone is reading thisSmile


You know what they say about the best laid plans.. Not that I'm one for drawing plans.. But the plans have changed quite a bit on the steering for this project.

The original idea was to have brakes each side so the machine would turn like a skid steer..

But after a lot of time spent making caliper mounts..




Steering levers that slide..




And adding brake master cylinders the blasted machine refused to turn!!




Even creating the "Stig double pumper" using two master cylinders running two calipers each side didn't workAngry






There was only one thing for it... Unbolt loads of bits..






And cut the front of the chassis off!!




Chopped..




This may seem a strange thing to do seeing as Ardingly is coming up and I want to machine in working condition to show..

But there is a method behind the madness in the form of a second transBig%20smile




Which as you might of just guessed fits in the front.






The idea being one trans runs the wheels one side, and the other trans runs.. Yep the wheels on the other sideBig%20smile


To stop the "non driving" axle I could make up something that bolts the axle to the chassis thus stopping it turning..
The only problem with that is the driving axle will turn twice as fast as it should!!  Not to mention a lot of extra strain on the trans..

The other way (which is the one I'm going for) is to crack open the trans and turn all the pinion gears the same way around...
This will make the driving axle turn at the right speed while not putting any power through the other axle..


So far the trans top mount has been sorted..




But due to my ARC welder dying I've not been able to crack on with the rest of the "up front" chassis
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Quote hortimech Replybullet Posted: 26 May 2012 at 3:52pm
Whilst I admire your engineering skills, I do not think that this machine will ever steer easily if at all. What you are trying to build here is a variant of a skid steer loader type vehicle but with 6 wheels and I think there will be too much force needed to force it sideways, but time will tell.
As for your axle mods, you can purchase HST transaxles with 1 output shaft (obviously handed L & R) so in theory what you are planning should work, but you would have to drive the wheels on the same axle, preferably the centre axle.
If all else fails, turn into a zero-turn machine by making the front wheels into castors.
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Quote sten Replybullet Posted: 26 May 2012 at 6:39pm
The skid steering should be ok on grass or gravel but not on dry tarmac or concrete, I used to have an 8 wheel Argocat which are skid steer but perhaps a bit lighter than this project though, and the less grippy the surface was the easier it is to steer.
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 12 Aug 2012 at 4:54pm
Originally posted by hortimech

Whilst I admire your engineering skills, I do not think that this machine will ever steer easily if at all. What you are trying to build here is a variant of a skid steer loader type vehicle but with 6 wheels and I think there will be too much force needed to force it sideways, but time will tell.
As for your axle mods, you can purchase HST transaxles with 1 output shaft (obviously handed L & R) so in theory what you are planning should work, but you would have to drive the wheels on the same axle, preferably the centre axle.
If all else fails, turn into a zero-turn machine by making the front wheels into castors.


Howdo, I have to disagree with you about this machine never turning..
After spending just over 3 years now building this beast, I'm going to Smile
Although it's not managed to turn "as it should" yet, there has always been more than a glimmer of hope that it will do.
That and I don't like to be beaten. For every problem a solution can be found.. Yep, I'm an optimistic bugger meBig%20smile
When Pete and I put the machine back in the Shack we found it would pivot very easily when we pushed the tyres each side in opposite directions. I think what helped was my fat @rse was not on the seat adding loads of weight to the back.
Fitting the second trans on the front will help with the weight balance no end.

If you have look at my "Raider 20 Test Drive 2" video (YouTube link below) you will see as well as the beast being test driven by Nigel from this ere forum, that the beast wanted to turn, if the belts were not slipping it would of turned.
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 12 Aug 2012 at 4:57pm
Hi Sten, are Argocat's not brake steered?
I've heard tales of them having little cooling fans to help keep the brake discs
cool, and that if the fans fail the discs end up glowing red!!
Not good for the brakes but would make a cool photoLOL
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 12 Aug 2012 at 5:36pm
Right guy's I'd best get on with a with a much needed update.

A big thanks to you fine chaps who came over to say hello and that you had been following this build and my vids.. Cheers Chaps.


At the end of my last update I left you with a knackered welder.
The good news is after ordering a new ark welder sparks started flying and some new chassis rails found their way on to the beast.








While the welds were cooling down, I used the time to clean up the hood stand. The old brake lever sliders won't be needed any more.




That looks better. Shame about the big hole I cut in it..
Oh well, it's only metal and can be sorted.




With the engine plonked back on the chassis.




Some rope was used to get it in the right place.. The only place it would fit as it happens!




Ah... Looks like the parking brake pedal might need a few mods to clear the engine!




A trim of the hood stand is needed as well.




A quick trim of the hood stand, bonnet, fender pan, seat and a wheel thrown in place. With the aid of some magazine pages, some masking tape and a can of red oxide primer to fill the missing part of the bonnet..

I made a coffee..




Than stood back and grinned at the beast I had created Big%20smile
Yep, I like the lookThumbs%20Up







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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 12 Aug 2012 at 5:58pm
A couple of the axles needed a little on the lathe to make them fit in their new homes.




That's better.




Let's get it mounted to the chassis.

Slicing up this bit of box..




Tacked together.




Taken off for seam welding. Seen here under the "express cooling system".




Cleaned up.




And tacked back on to the chassis. It was fully welded up the next day.





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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 12 Aug 2012 at 6:19pm
Jumping back to the parking brake pedal.. Here it is..




A bit of chopping later, it slides all the way to the left and clears the engine.




Both ends welded up.




Add a bracket thingy.




And a couple of off cuts.




Ta-Daa..




The parking brake pedal now operates the trans brakes front and rear.




Not the best looking of rods to the front trans, but it does the job.




And now for a bit of a challenge..

How to fit two motion (soon to called steering) levers..




In a space designed for one!!




This could be interesting Big%20smile
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 12 Aug 2012 at 6:54pm
Typing this bit, take 2!!

I just clicked on the wrong "post reply" button and lost everything I had just typed!!!

Let's try again.Big%20smile


To make life easier this large lump was unbolted from the chassis and plonked on the bench.
The strange "cam" type thingys each side are connected to the brake/panic pedal. when you stamp on it, it kicks the motion lever back into neutral.




as this was such a complicated "cut and shut" job I thought a plan of action list might be handy..

Err..!!!




Right, here we go..  Chop chop.




Swap the small bits side to side.




And weld them back in.




The "lever" bit needed to be moved inwards.
The block of steel makes sure it gets welded back on at the right angle.




Welded up... And soon after straightened out.




A quick test fit.




Back on the bench, now with a slice taken out the middle.




While it's apart this bracket thingy was cut off the inside.




And welded back onto the inside of the other side.




Back in one bit and looking a lot narrower.




Very narrow when sat next to a standard (but not for long) one.




Fitted.


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Quote nigel Replybullet Posted: 12 Aug 2012 at 8:04pm
your like the mad professerWink
ime very posh
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 26 Aug 2012 at 7:33pm
Hark who's talking you Nutter NigelLOL


So where were we? Oh yes, steering levers..

Best get on with the right side lever.

Chop chop.




Yet more chopping.




It was then clamped in the lathe along with the left side lever to use as reference for getting the angle right..
Even Dexion has it's uses.




Yep that lever has been welded on upside down




One last cut and turn. Here's Rob looking confused about it all.




Back in one piece again.




Not for long Big%20smile




It was soon welded up in a totally different shape.




Both levers fitted in a space designed for one.




To  make it all fit the parking brake lever had to be moved from the left to the right side.




It's now a two lever WH.


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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 26 Aug 2012 at 7:57pm
The left hand lever controls the front trans, working out the linkage didn't take too long.


A rod from the lever goes forward through the hood stand.




And connects to this pivot lever thingy.




A rod from that runs under the engine.




To another pivot lever thingy.




And another rod from that to the trans..

Quite simple and works really well.




The brake pedal had a second extension added.




So could connect to the right side steering lever.
Now when you stamp on the "panic pedal" both steering levers will kick into neutral.




This bonnet arrived in the post.




It was soon sliced up and used to extend the er.. bonnet.


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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 8:36am
Morning all, with "test drive 3" coming up shortly, maybe the end of this week/early next I thought I should do my best and try and get this thread up to date..   Wish me luck as there are bucket loads of more photo's and typing to come.

With the bonnet lengthened (but not finished) on it went for a test fit..
Ah.. That could be a problem..
With the engine moved back to it's new location the air cleaner hit's the bonnet!!






Not wanting to add a bulge to the bonnet the only way forward was to lower the engine..

Quite easy to sort, I just removed this mounting plate and bolted the engine direct to the chassis.




Plenty of clearance nowSmile




Thanks for reading my ramblings, more to come later.
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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 12:23pm
Next on the "to get done" hit list was to find somewhere to put the as tank and battery tray.




This used to hold the bike brakes master cylinders..




With a bit of chopping it was made to fit under the bonnet, shame there was not enough space for both the tank and battery!




So the tank ended up under the bonnet.




And the battery had to go in the only space left to fit it..




It's not ideal as it hangs a bit low under the chassis, but I had no other option.




The chassis was then stripped bare and turned over.




For final welding.




Pete then gave the underside a quick lick of paint to keep the rust away.




That looks better.




The chassis was then turned into a bench.




For some trans work.




This is the front trans, I didn't think there was much oil left in it, so I didn't bother trying to drain it..
Oops!! there was more left in it than I thought as I found out when I cracked it open.. Best find a quick way of diverting the oil off the bench and into something!




Trans side cover removed, it looked quite clean in there.




One side of the diff removed so I could get at the pinion gears.




With the gears all turned the same way the trans will now only put power out of the left axle.. Which is just what I want.




A new gasket was marked out.




Once cut it fitted a treatSmile




Sorted..




The rear trans was moved between benches for the same pinion gear job to be done.. Making sure the pinion gears were turned to turn only the right side axle.




Both axle oil seals were swapped for new ones while the trans'sss were apart.



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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 1:32pm
Reassembly time.. Front trans on first.




The engine on it's way.




A mad moment!!




It's getting there.




When it came time to fit the main drive belt I ran into a little problem that I had half been expecting... The belt touches the chassis!!




Only one way to fix this... The offending bits of the chassis got the chop.




And was then boxed back in for strength.




With the Ardingly show getting ever closer I thought I better look at the safety side of things and fit a belt guard.




A bit of trimming later and the rear half of the guard fitted a treat.




But how to cover up this bit??




A dig through the spares under the bench produced this aux belt cover from (I think) a Wheel Horse 518-H that I used to own.




Some slicing and welding later..




The only mesh I could find to cover the trans cooling fan was this from a Kohler KT-17 engine that I had bought cheap for spare as it had a busted rod and 3 holes punched through the crank case!!




But how fit it in??

With a cut down KT-17 engine shroud of course Smile






The next day I decided I didn't like the "cut down" look so I welded back on the parts I had cut off the previous day..

The looks better.




Hardly noticeable from the front.

 


Pete gave the belt guard a quick coat of paint.




Yes it really is that long!




With 3 or 4 days to go until Ardingly it was time for "Test drive 2"..

You can see the video on my UkWheelHorseBloke YouTube channel (link below). Guest test driving done by Nigel from this ere parish Thumbs%20Up

As you will see the beast didn't steer too well, it was mostly caused by the wheel to wheel drive belts slipping... But it did want to try and steer!


In sheer desperation a couple of days was spent knocking up some "quick tracks". 
A big thanks to Nigel for donating lot's of angle iron to make them out of.




As modeled by a "Grizzly Garry" LOL






A quick test drive showed they worked fine... Until I tried to turn at which point the tracks were thrown off!!

This was the Friday before Ardingly!!

With nothing else I could do to get it steering in the zero time left, the beast was loaded onto a trailer along with Nigel's machines..




And off to Ardingly it went.


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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 2:34pm
As much as I enjoyed the show (well apart from the weather) and enjoyed meeting you all, the effort of it all including the "mad run-up month" really knocked me sideways!!

For those that don't know I suffer from a condition called Dystonia
Here's a link..

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dystonia


So work on this beast has been rather slow to say the least, my body has still not recovered yet back to the Pre Ardingly state it was in!


The only way to get this beast steering was to ditch the wheel to wheel belts and fit chains instead.. So while I was saving up the pennies to buy them I got on with finishing (almost) the bonnet.

To keep the bonnet proportions looking right it had to be widened..
The gaps had just been duck taped over and painted for Ardingly, now was the time to patch up the gaps.




Welded.




The filler work was started inside.




A DA sander came in very handy.




Rob busy turning the Workshack white!!




It looked like it had been snowing inside!!




When summer arrived the filling continued outside...
Did I mention I hate sanding filler? Unhappy




After what felt like a life time the fillering was finished..




And given a couple of thick coats of rust oxide primer..
This stuff is made for painting RSJ's etc so it goes on very thick..
But it can be sanded down to a nice smooth finish that can be painted overThumbs%20Up




The last time I drove it there was some strange sounds coming from the main drive belt..
Off the belt guard came to have a look.




Er... what's been going on here then? That was a new belt!!




Ah, this can't be helping!!
The bearing race in one of the pulleys had collapsed, twisting the pulley and scrubbing the side of the belt!
The engine pulley I made may of helped the belt self destruct, more on that in a bit.

 


Speaking of pulleys... Anyone want to buy these SPA section Vee Pulley 112x1 1610 Taper?




The good thing with this taperlock marlarky is I can keep the bushes from the pulleys..




And bolt them into these rather sexy 3/4" pitch 17 tooth sprockets Big%20smile




5 meters of chain also found it's way here.. 36 for 5 meters delivered!!
A very good price.. Found on Ebay..
As I found out I need another 1.5 meters of the stuff, but that should turn up here tomorrow or Wednesday.




A quick test fit showed that although the chain (not pictured) would clear the bolt heads that hold the bearing blocks on, clearance was a tad too tight for my liking.




Sooo.. Back to the lathe..



4 of 6 2mm spacers made.




That's better, loads of clearance nowThumbs%20Up




To make the chains fit with a little bit of slack but not too much I've had to order some "half links", they should be here tomorrow, fingers crossed.




Two guides are needed on each chain... One fixed at the front.




And one at the rear with adjustment.




These have been made by turning down some skateboard wheels.


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Quote Stigian Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 3:02pm
Almost got this thread up to date folks, this was Friday/Saturdays fun.

As mentioned earlier the engine pulley I made didn't help the drive belt have a long and happy life..
For some reason I  hadn't made the groove wide enough!!




So the drive belt wouldn't fit right!




That's quite a bit too narrow!




So on the lathe it went.... Hhmm.. that's not looking too firmly held!




Normally I use this drill chuck fitted in the tail stock, this time the hole was too big..




What I need is a much bigger one of these.




Not a problem... A dig in the "might come in handy one day" bucket of round bits produced this.




Part way though turning..




Ta-Daa Big%20smile




It fits a treat, the pulley is held firm and spins true.




The pulley turned out to the correct size.




A much better fit on the belt Thumbs%20Up




The chewed up drive belt was a B140, which was just a little too small..
So small I couldn't fit it under the belt tensioner !

So I order the next size up, a B144..
Guess what???  Yep, it's too big!




I guess I need to make this pulley more adjustable, but that's a job for another day.




And that chaps is this build thread finally up to date...

If all goes to plan (Dystonia permitting) I hope to be test driving it again at the end of this week or early next..

Don't worry Nigel, I will let you know when Thumbs%20Up


To finish off, the 8th of this month was a very important date... It was this machines 3rd birthday..

So Pete and I threw it a little birthday party..




A slice for Pete..




A slice for me..




And of course a slice for..........Big%20smile


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Quote nigel Replybullet Posted: 31 Aug 2012 at 6:40pm

IT WORKS so all the dowters were wrong a big up for ian after 3 years the machine moved 2 day backwards fowards and round and round even went up and down and ime getting my drive tommorow look out for it at the shows next year. well done mateClapClapClapClapClapClapClapClapClapClapClapClap

ime very posh
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