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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Topic: Howard Bantam with Villiers Mk15 HS
    Posted: 01 Apr 2013 at 11:13pm
This is my next project.......... Its another Freebie, although not complete (missing the back end, rotors and shaft) Its fairly sound. Lots of original paint and no serious rust issues. The engine appears to be missing the exhaust and the air filter. I dont know how long this has been stood, It has some compression but think for my piece of mind I will strip it down and rebuild it.
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Martinh
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Quote Martinh Replybullet Posted: 03 Apr 2013 at 6:35pm
At least the tyres are looking good  It's all nuts and bolts and Villiers engine spares seem easy to get . They were a nice little machine 
Martin. The Village Idiot
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 7:51pm


Yes Martin, the tyres are very good! Not much wear which makes me think its not been worked too hard. Another good thing is there is no play in the wheels either.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 7:59pm
I removed the Villiers from this machine about a week ago. Once home started to assess it and make a shopping list...... It has a little compression, not enough for it to run though. It turns nice and freely with no horrible noises but no spark at all. It will need an exhaust, an air filter and a carb kit. S1G informs me these engines have flakey coils, so a new coil and condenser will also be added to the shopping list. A set of gaskets, a new plug, lead, a slosh of fresh oil and hopefully she will run again.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:03pm
Here are some pictures of the dismantling...... This first picture shows the rocker cover removed. First impressions would indicate something amiss with the exhaust pushrod, its not seated under the rocker arm. Hmmm?
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:06pm
Thankfully after a bit of investigation a sticky valve has allowed the pushrod to drop sideways without causing any damage.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:09pm
some more photo's as its taken apart.......
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:11pm
Piston and Bore seem in really good condition.......
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:15pm
There was a huge amount of sticky oily mess over the bottom of the engine.... so into the parts washer, and its come up really good. Lots of original paint and virtually no rust!
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:18pm
Think the sticky valve is down to a build up of carbon. The cylinder head and valves were quite badly coked up......
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:22pm
The valves after a clean on the brass wheel..... and a comparison between a BJ valve from a Gem with the Villiers valve from the Bantam...... 
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:48pm
I would also appear that this Bantam may have been Mouse powered at some point, judging by what was found in the cowling......
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series V Ash
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Quote series V Ash Replybullet Posted: 07 Apr 2013 at 12:48am
hi darmic may be able to help you with rotor box ashgive me acall 07922128303
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daviddale
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Quote daviddale Replybullet Posted: 07 Apr 2013 at 10:43pm
Hello, I have one of these machines myself, they have an overhead valve engine as opposed to the older more common side valve ones. Mine despite a strip down clean up and fresh oil etc good spark after a new coil too but engine does not turn as freely as I'd hoped, no damage or partial seizures as I can see or feel, but pulling it over is a bind, I have had it running for a few minutes at a time, but I need to get around to making a new throttle cable one day, carb end is just a tiny piece of solder, no nipple, how do I cast one on? I suppose I'll end up putting some copper wire around cable end and filling with solder, somehow,DD.
Regards, David.
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Phil Somers
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Quote Phil Somers Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2013 at 11:48am
[QUOTE=daviddale]Hello, I have one of these machines myself, they have an overhead valve engine as opposed to the older more common side valve ones. Mine despite a strip down clean up and fresh oil etc good spark after a new coil too but engine does not turn as freely as I'd hoped, no damage or partial seizures as I can see or feel, but pulling it over is a bind, I have had it running for a few minutes at a time, but I need to get around to making a new throttle cable one day, carb end is just a tiny piece of solder, no nipple, how do I cast one on? I suppose I'll end up putting some copper wire around cable end and filling with solder, somehow,DD.


Try here, you can build your own. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/motorcycle/controlcable.php

Phil
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Stuart.
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Quote Stuart. Replybullet Posted: 08 Apr 2013 at 10:22pm
I make up all my own cables from old or scrap lawnmower / garden machinery cables.I "braze" (using oxy / acetylene equipment)nipples on the end of the cables as its much stronger than solder.In fact only yesterday i made a "new" clutch cable up for my 1985 Honda CR60R childs moto-cross bike as the genuine cables from Honda are NLA / obsolete.
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Quote will_haggle Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 8:12am
I use universal bicycle brake cables, Wilkinsons sell them for about 1.14, they have a pear nipple on one end and a barrel nipple on the other. The nipples can be re-shaped, slid up the cable to where you want them.
I would advise against braze or silver solder for cables, the heat affects the temper of the cable and when I was running a Norton motorcycle the clutch cable used to break near the nipple where the cable had been weakened. Soft solder with an iron is best.
6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...
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Phil Somers
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Quote Phil Somers Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 10:17am
Got to agree with Alan on the soldering. It does weaken the cables if you braze them, it was a definate no-no to make brake cables that way. Stick to soldering.
The only problem with universal brake cables is that they are normaly thicker than throttle cables and the nipples are bigger.
Phil
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Charlie
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Quote Charlie Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 2:39pm
This link may be of some use soldering a cable niple
'Don't force it! Get a bigger hammer'
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howardman
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Quote howardman Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 5:23pm
I have used mig wire clamped with those double screw electrical connector/joiners. I am working on a mark 15 ohv Villiers at present like yours darmic...any ideas how a new rocker cover gasket could be made? mine is shot and has covered the engine in oil.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 10:29pm
Get some gasket paper, Ive got various thicknesses from the bay in the past. Draw around the Rocker cover, then draw a parallel line about 4 or 5 mm inside the outer one. Then cut out with either a sharp stanley knife or some good scissors, voila!
Ive got to either make a new magneto back plate gasket or order a full set up for mine as there was an oil leak from that area.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 11:05pm
Decided to investigate the lack of spark today. Removed the Magneto coil, Condensor, Points etc..... all were absolutely covered in oil. Not suprising there was no spark really! These pictures show it after the clean up.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 11:11pm
Also cleaned up the flywheel and the rope starter too. Its all in remarkably good condition. I think this machine has been stored inside most its life, as all the parts are in so much better condition than my Gems were.
 
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 11:19pm
All back together, but still no spark. Tested the plug lead, nothing! Further investigation revealed the plug lead and cap are from a more modern engine, a silicone lead of the Unipart variety..... A test with the meter straight onto the coil and to earth reveals some electrical activity, but until I have a relacement copper lead and cap I wont know for sure if the coil and condensor are good enough for a spark to be produced. 
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 11:53pm
Gaskets sets are available from Meetens in Gosport - got one for the Mk15 on my Auto Culto Junior last September. The set was made up whilst I waited, and they are happy to do individual gaskets.

Jim.
The Allen & Simmonds Register

http://www.g1jbg.co.uk/autoculto

For users of Auto Culto, Autogardener, Horticulto, Midgiculto and other Allen & Simmonds products.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 12:23am
Brilliant! Thankyou.......might pop down tomorrow, its only 45-60 minutes from me.
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Quote wristpin Replybullet Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 12:30am
Originally posted by Charlie

This link may be of some use soldering a cable niple


That's a good link with good advice. If the nipple is slightly countersunk and the splayed end of the cable filled with solder the splay can't close up and pull through. The wedging action of the splay is far more effective than just relying on the "glueing" of the solder. Can't beat good old Bakers soldering fluid for cables!
Central Spares used to sell a solder pot but I see that it has disappeared from the current catalogue. All the ones from UK sellers on flebay seem a bit expensive for private users and not too sure about ordering from Hong Kong!
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Quote howardman Replybullet Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 7:22am
I got mine running with a borrowed carb from a Howard 200...but must strip down and clean up like you have....must be oily behind flywheel. Will contact meetens for gaskets.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 9:43pm
Took a trip down to Gosport today, to Meetens. Have purchased most of the bits to get the engine up and running. I say most as I realised when I got home I had forgotten the Airfilter....... Will have to phone tomorrow to order one!
Here's my goodies.....
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 9:50pm
The good news was the Coil is good! It was tested and found to be working absolutely fine!!! A significant saving there.
The other good news is that they have Valve guides in stock, here is the new, against the old showing the crack, and a shot of the new guide fitted.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 9:57pm
Have been busy with the orange spray too..... Most the engine has been stripped, Etch primed and given a couple of top coats of colour.
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series V Ash
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Quote series V Ash Replybullet Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 10:46pm
nice job to your lovely standard as usual keep it up
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 11 Apr 2013 at 7:15pm
Hi Darren, heres a few shots of doner machine you can have.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 11 Apr 2013 at 7:15pm
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 11 Apr 2013 at 7:16pm
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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