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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 11 Apr 2013 at 7:16pm
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 11:09pm
Hi Gareth, that looks like a good source of parts, thanks! I will contact you when Im able to pop over.......
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 11:15pm
Done a little bit more yesterday, got the engine all reassembled, just need to finish the timing. Also got the cowling stripped, etch primed and painted.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 11:24pm
Been busy again this afternoon, finished setting up the engine timing. Tested by hand and am pleased to report a good spark! Reassembled, flywheel and tightened up, refitted the cowling and fitted the exhaust.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 11:30pm
Here is a little video of the engine being test run. The carb and fuel tank still need overhauling, hence the fuel being syringed into the engine.....
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howardman
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Quote howardman Replybullet Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 10:27am
Its looks grt...I didn't know that those "lodge" plugs are still available.....is there an advantage in using them?
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 12:59pm
Thanks!!! Ref the Lodge plugs, Meetens has boxes of New ones!
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Andy Frost
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Quote Andy Frost Replybullet Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 1:19pm
Originally posted by howardman

Its looks grt...I didn't know that those "lodge" plugs are still available.....is there an advantage in using them?


Certainly , in my opinion , for the machinery we do , they are vastly superior to any other plug.

Andy.
Early Villiers Twostroke spares Always Wanted
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 2:59pm
The older plugs definatly work better in two strokes - they have a glazed insulator nose, which means they are less likely to suffer from ashort circuit due to carbon build up. I had terrible trouble with new plugs in an Allen Scythe - it would only run for atound 40 minutes before the plug sooted up. Change for an old plug, and the problem went away!

Jim.
The Allen & Simmonds Register

http://www.g1jbg.co.uk/autoculto

For users of Auto Culto, Autogardener, Horticulto, Midgiculto and other Allen & Simmonds products.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 10:37pm
Got the carb all cleaned and reassembled this afternoon. All new parts now fitted. Have yet to get the air cleaner, a new fuel line and a replacement throttle cable, a job for next week.
Managed to clean up the tank brackets, etch prime them and get a coat of colour on, will need to collect another tin of colour to finish them and paint the tank
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 10:43pm
Can the Ewarts fuel taps be re-corked? This one has seen better days , still leaks despite the tank having liquid in for nearly a week.  How do you get the cork over the end stop? I cant see cork stretching over it!
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Charlie
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Quote Charlie Replybullet Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 7:29am
You can buy just the plunger with a new cork, my local garden machinery dealer stocks them. Note, cork is one of the materials not compatible with ethanol.

Old style spark plugs. Modern plugs are not glazed on the end and this is a problem in older engines. A modern engine with engine management never floods the engine with too much fuel but an older engine with carbs can and this contaminates the porcelain insulation as it is not glazed. (Information taken from Green Spark Plug company website).
'Don't force it! Get a bigger hammer'
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Andy Frost
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Quote Andy Frost Replybullet Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 8:56am
Originally posted by Darmic1



Can the Ewarts fuel taps be re-corked? This one has seen better days , still leaks despite the tank having liquid in for nearly a week. How do you get the cork over the end stop? I cant see cork stretching over it!


Yes , they're dead easy to do. Select the correct size pin punch and carefully drive the plunger out from the head. Slide the old cork off , pop new one one , and reverse the procedure. Finish by carefully re-rivetting with a small ballpein hammer.

Andy.
Early Villiers Twostroke spares Always Wanted
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 9:20am
Originally posted by Andy Frost

Originally posted by Darmic1



Can the Ewarts fuel taps be re-corked? This one has seen better days , still leaks despite the tank having liquid in for nearly a week. How do you get the cork over the end stop? I cant see cork stretching over it!


Yes , they're dead easy to do. Select the correct size pin punch and carefully drive the plunger out from the head. Slide the old cork off , pop new one one , and reverse the procedure. Finish by carefully re-rivetting with a small ballpein hammer.

Andy.
You can do that way but for a couple of quid you can buy a complete plunger assembly, which saves a lot of time. Charlie is right about the cork not being that sutible for ethanol, however ive found they last a reasonble time so long as you dont let them dry out, simply store the tap in a sealed container with some fuel in it over the winter months.(But do think about fire risk) I also find it worthwhile to soak the new plunger for a couple of hours before fitting.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 7:42pm
I think I will just order up a replacement plunger, it seems one small screw and its job done!
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 8:42pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

I think I will just order up a replacement plunger, it seems one small screw and its job done!
Yep, just be carefull with how soft the little screw is. I used to buy them in 10's off Midland Power machinery Distributors as they are the same as fitted to the earlier sufolks.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 8:44pm
If you dont manage to source the original type air filter i have today come accross the conversion kit to the red type villiers filter for that carb, would work well on the type of job youve got in mind.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 10:48pm
Ok thanks Gareth, will bear that in mind. Meetens were going to call me this week.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 11:15pm
Have found virtually no decals left on this machine..... There was the remains of a square black decal on the hinged panel below the plug and the remains of what might have been a Crest of some sort.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 11:38pm
Here's the remains of the Crest on the tank and its general condition before...
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 11:42pm
The tank after.......
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 11:44pm
Tank support brackets back on after a lick of paint
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Thomas
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 9:08am
That's a nice paint finish, what paint are you using?
cheers. Tom
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 12:30pm
Hi Tom, The paint I use is an 'iso free' 2pack paint made by ProXL. They are aerosol cans, colour is mixed and cans filled. The can contains a hardener which is released by pulling and twisting a ring. Shake the can to
mix, there is an adjustable spray nozzle, so for large areas you have the wide fan spray and narrow for smaller areas. The paint is fuel resistant and seems to be very durable. Although its not the cheapest paint available it seems the best I have found. The only draw back is once mixed, it needs to be used, it does however keep for about a week if kept in the fridge as I was advised yesterday.......
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Quote Thomas Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 9:09pm
Leaves a great finish for a rattle can, thought it looked like a two pack finish, but didn't expect it out of a rattle can. Really gives it a top class finish.
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 9:43pm
Thanks for the compliments. It is good stuff, but there is a lot of prep work under the final finish.......
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:08pm
To help protect the paint finish on the tank I have fitted some orange felt to the tank straps, secured with a small amount of impact adhesive. I have done this on both Gems previously on the tanks and it does the job.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:13pm
Here is the tank all secured, felt not even visable.....
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:21pm
Made a start on the engine mounting plate. Whilst stripping the old paint, discovered some stamped letters to indicate which bolt holes to use with which engines..... BS = Briggs and Stratton, V = Villiers and BSA = As is.......
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:27pm
Had a call from Meetens to say the replacement air cleaner is in. I have also ordered a replacement fuel tap plunger, a new throttle cable and a new fuel pipe. Should have them by the end of the week!  
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howardman
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Quote howardman Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:31pm
I restored an AC Bantam last year. But used the normal Howard orange tractor paint....which peels off with a whiff of petrol fuels...particularly disastrous on fuel tanks..so interested in paint info. I also adapted it to take a Briggs engine which was a lot of work. Seems much easier on your later type bantam.
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:32pm
Originally posted by Darmic1



Made a start on the engine mounting plate. Whilst stripping the old paint, discovered some stamped letters to indicate which bolt holes to use with which engines..... BS = Briggs and Stratton, V = Villiers and BSA = As is.......
[IMG]uploads/20130416_222124_048.jpg" height="612" width="816" />
Briggs and stratton were only fitted to american machines along with Kohler and Clinton. U.k had Villiers Mk25c and Mk15 also Bsa and AC120.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:38pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

Made a start on the engine mounting plate. Whilst stripping the old paint, discovered some stamped letters to indicate which bolt holes to use with which engines..... BS = Briggs and Stratton, V = Villiers and BSA = As is.......
Would I be right in that assumption though? I cannot think of any other explanation???
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 17 Apr 2013 at 7:23am
Originally posted by Darmic1


Originally posted by Darmic1



Made a start on the engine mounting plate. Whilst stripping the old paint, discovered some stamped letters to indicate which bolt holes to use with which engines..... BS = Briggs and Stratton, V = Villiers and BSA = As is.......
[IMG]uploads/20130416_222124_048.jpg" height="612" width="816" />

Would I be right in that assumption though? I cannot think of any other explanation???
Quite likely, the holes do look somewhere near right for each engine spacing.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 17 Apr 2013 at 9:11pm
Have now got the Engine mounting plate and front frame painted. I will probably not mount the engine to the tilting mechanism until I have the rest of the frame stripped and painted.
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