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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 12 May 2013 at 8:26pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

Hi Gareth, its a company called rubberxpress, based in Fareham Hampshire. I found them on e##y, will pm you the details if you want?

Hi darren that would be great thankyou.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Burnsy
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Quote Burnsy Replybullet Posted: 13 May 2013 at 1:56am
Originally posted by Darmic1

Hi Gareth, its a company called rubberxpress, based in Fareham Hampshire. I found them on e##y, will pm you the details if you want?
 
Can I have the details as well please?
 
Thanks,
Mike
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 13 May 2013 at 7:16am
Hi Mike, will PM you.......
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Phil Somers
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Quote Phil Somers Replybullet Posted: 13 May 2013 at 8:21am
Tell you what Darren, that parts washer comes in handy for a work bench I think it features in nearly all your pictures.
You should aproach the manufactures for sponsorship.Tongue Good bit of kit though, I wish I had room for one.
 
Phil
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 13 May 2013 at 1:09pm
Ha ha ha Phil......... Its because I dont have enough room, it gets used as a workbench..........
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Burnsy
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Quote Burnsy Replybullet Posted: 13 May 2013 at 1:44pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

Hi Mike, will PM you.......
 
Thanks, I see they are a 3/4 inch grip. 
 
What size are the bars on the Bantam? I thought they would be the same as the Bullfinch but my Bullfinch is 7/8 inch pipe do they fit with some persuasion?  My Terrier which is what I need the grips for is 1 inch so I guess I will need to keep lookingCry.
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 13 May 2013 at 6:03pm
Originally posted by Burnsy


Originally posted by Darmic1

Hi Mike, will PM you.......
Thanks, I see they are a 3/4 inch grip.
What size are the bars on the Bantam? I thought they would be the same as the Bullfinch but my Bullfinch is 7/8 inch pipe do they fit with some persuasion? My Terrier which is what I need the grips for is 1 inch so I guess I will need to keep looking[IMG]smileys/smiley19.gif" height="17" width="17" align="absmiddle" alt="Cry" />.
If you look at their other items they also appear to offer them in 1"
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Burnsy
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Quote Burnsy Replybullet Posted: 14 May 2013 at 1:21am
Originally posted by series1gem

If you look at their other items they also appear to offer them in 1"
Will keep an eye on them as there were no other items in their store yesterday, maybe they had a rush of orders for rotavatorsSmile
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 14 May 2013 at 7:41pm
Managed to get the drive wheels stripped today........ No thanks to the New formula Nitromors! For those of you who use the stuff, the new "green" formulation doesn't work on 50-60s enamal paints as it no longer contains Dichloroethane. They also advise not to sand these paints as they contain lead! Having made a phone call to Henkel to enquire as to how I could safely remove said paint, they could offer no solution. The can advertises the product as "strips faster", "longer active" It should state "pointless" and "useless"
Any how it does soften the paint sufficiently to scrape the worst of it off.
Here is the stripped and wire brushed parts and with a coat of etch primer on.
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 14 May 2013 at 11:04pm
Try a product called Mangers, a lot cheaper aswell than nitromorse.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 14 May 2013 at 11:16pm
I will do a bit of research into Mangers, does that come ready to use or as a powder to mix?
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 14 May 2013 at 11:29pm
Have now got the rest of the wheel section etch primed ready for paint tomorrow.
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 15 May 2013 at 7:15am
Originally posted by Darmic1

I will do a bit of research into Mangers, does that come ready to use or as a powder to mix?

It comes ready made in 1 and 5 ltr containers. The only product ive found to work aswell as the old nitromorse but used to cost me about 20ish for 5ltr's. I used to get from Keris old work, (They have ceased trading in January though so will have to find another source).
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 May 2013 at 11:04pm
1st couple of coats of colour going on.......
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 May 2013 at 11:06pm

And on the rotors.......

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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 May 2013 at 11:09pm
Top coat on and drying in the little bit of sun we had today.....
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 May 2013 at 11:12pm
Received a call from the powder coaters this morning to say all the bits are ready to collect...... Now where do all these bits go?
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 May 2013 at 11:19pm
Made a start putting it all back together this afternoon. 1st the handle bars, then the engine frame, then the rotors........
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 15 May 2013 at 11:26pm
Next was mounting the engine, remembering to bolt it to the tilting plate first, before mounting the plate to the frame. Otherwise the bolts are inaccessible....
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Quote Phil Somers Replybullet Posted: 16 May 2013 at 7:23am
Darren, what's the difference between using etching primer and red oxide?

Phil
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 May 2013 at 7:51am
Hi Phil, etch primer contains an acid which eats slightly into the surface of whatever you are painting, It give much better adhesion. It also contains a rust inhibitor. Ive used it for years on all sorts of surfaces, its particularly good on aluminium, I have even used it on plastic bumpers and fibreglass.
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Charlie
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Quote Charlie Replybullet Posted: 16 May 2013 at 9:14am
I would say etch primer is essential on aluminium due to the hard oxide layer that forms on bare aluminium.
'Don't force it! Get a bigger hammer'
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 May 2013 at 9:28am
I used it on some old corroded aluminium wheels from an MX5, that was at least 12 years ago........ they still look like new!!!
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 16 May 2013 at 9:39am

Encountered a bit of a problem when trying to reassemble the drive selecting rod, The photo shows a brass piece which has been used to repair a broken rod. The only problem now is the return spring will no longer fit! This would explain why when moving the machine the gears kept engaging.... Luckily I had some spare rod, a welder, a tap and die set and the pillar drill....... A short while later, Ta Da! one replacement selector rod.

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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 16 May 2013 at 9:52pm
Nice nice   exellent job what more can i say
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 17 May 2013 at 7:49pm
Thank you John, Its getting there, well it would have been if it wasn't for yesterdays setbacks.........
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 17 May 2013 at 8:08pm
Had a bit of a disaster yesterday....... a Trio of Trauma's! I was trying to fit the rotor covers, I encountered a problem with the fit. It all went together very well prior to the powder coating, but yesterday everything was out by almost 1/4 inch. The problem seemed to be where the smaller cover fits to the larger one, and the two support brackets fit to the sides..... It would appear a combination of powder coat and a small weld repair and possibly being dropped were the culprits. Whilst pondering how to fix the problem I decided to refit the blades, this is when things got a tiny bit worse, I managed to shear one of the bolts resulting in a nasty deep gash to 3 fingers on my left hand. The next disaster was slipping with the power file whilst removing offending weld and excess powder coat...... I ended up losing control of the tool and creating a 3" long 1/2" wide scratch in the top finish. Anyways, here's the photo's of the blades refitted and the damage.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 17 May 2013 at 8:14pm
Here is the gear selector refitted and adjusted so both gears and neutral are selected properly.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 17 May 2013 at 8:43pm
Not done too much today, been at work. I have removed the drive belt as it is slightly too long, will collect the correct length, an A25 tomorrow. Have also had the touch-up pot out and painted almost all the nut and bolt heads.......
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Quote howardhoe Replybullet Posted: 17 May 2013 at 11:31pm
Even despite your setbacks that is looking unbelievably good!! I have one of these in the shed to restore with the same engine, watching your thread has me itching to get into mine.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 17 May 2013 at 11:43pm
Scratch the itch! Get started on your Bantam!
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Quote howardhoe Replybullet Posted: 18 May 2013 at 5:02am
I have moved it up my list but better finish what i am working on first or i wont know what goes where....well i am pretty confused already. One thing i never do is take enough photo's when pulling things apart. At least when i start on the bantam i will have people like you to go to for advice. I am going to need missing parts also. Hopefully this forum will be good for contacts to source some of those parts, others i will most likely have to make.
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 18 May 2013 at 9:36am
It is a fine looking machine, allmost too good to use now.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 21 May 2013 at 10:43pm
I have now collected the correct belt, an A25, Its now fitted and adjusted so the belt doesn't drive the gearbox when engine is disengaged. Have also reinstalled the drive brake, a block which helps prevent the drive turning when the engine is disengaged. The pulleys have also been cleaned up and painted with a coat of smoothrite.....
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 23 May 2013 at 10:26pm
Well, I have now got this little beastie moving under its own power! Having filled the relevant places with SAE80 EP free oil. Not sure what quantities should be used, so have filled to the top. Here is a short video of it driving.......
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