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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Topic: howard Gem Amal carb
    Posted: 03 Jun 2013 at 11:25pm
Can anyone identify the model of this Amal carb off my Gem with a British Junior Engine? Is something missing? should it have a petrol filter gauze on the jet? I ask because I see spares are available from amal, but I can,t see any mdel number anywhere on the casting. also should there be a gasket between the head and the float body?
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howardman
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Quote howardman Replybullet Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 12:25am
Looks like the amal 225/3 ..stripped one recently for my howard 180 twin ...there was no fuel filter on mine. I soaked it in carb /choke cleaner..blew out with air line and attached some 1/4 copper pipe ..running ok ish now. I used a washer to seal the screw on cap of float chamber.
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 7:17am
Check the butterfly shaft for wear, 99% of them seem to have a lot of play which will cause them to run lean and if working to suck dirt into the engine. A mate of mine drilled the body out and made a very small brass bush the last time i wanted one fixed.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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howardman
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Quote howardman Replybullet Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 8:27am
I think you could up that to near 100% ...mine is well worn too ...will have to sort the same problem.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 5:48pm
Hi Plonker, or do you prefer Phil, Phillip?
Its definitely an Amal 225/3 throttle body type carb. The model number is stamped into the aluminium body near the clamp which goes onto the brass inlet.
There is also a number cast into the aluminium on the underside, but this isn't the model number 225/016. Not sure what this number is though.....
  There is no filter in these carbs, my project Series 1 Rotary Hoe, I made a copper gauze filter and placed it in the neck of the tank outlet. This was fitted to later series 2 machines, as in my other Gem project. Hope this helps, Darren
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 5:59pm
Having also enquired about spares from Amal about 2 years ago, they told me no spares were available for this carb. However the 275 pre monobloc is the closest thing in looks. It does seem to have a bottom feed float kit available. What spares are you after!
Also, no gasket between the cap and body as there are 2 small holes for fuel/air to escape when pressing the 'tickler'
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 04 Jun 2013 at 11:44pm
Thanks for all that, I thought I may need a gasket set and a petrol filter gauze, but it seems not, I have had it in the acid bath for 5 mins, and it has come out like a new pin, so I will just put it back together and try it out, the petrol gauze in my tank / tap body had disintergrated so I am experimenting with a wad of white wool felt to filter the petrol before it gets to the tap, if it doesnt work I will probably add a proper disposable fuel filter, yes, I have now found the numbers , same as yours, thanks. Plonker
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 07 Jun 2013 at 8:48pm
Well, I have cleaned the Tank and the Amal carb in the acid bath, and actually fired it up today, and after retiming the magneto got it running after a fashion, I think something was living in the exhaust, because when fired up, the barn was full of what looks like confetti! QUESTION why does the Amal carb drip fuel from the needle adjuster? I can see where the fuel travels from the float chamber to the main jet and needle, but I cant see anything to stop the fuel trickling down through the threads? or am I missing something? QUESTION2 also how long does it take for oil to be seen pumping back into the tank? from an empty system just firing up for the first time? I have got oil in the feed pipe, and used oil in the return pipe, but nothing yet apearing in the tank.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 08 Jun 2013 at 1:10am
Hi Plonker, I've had fuel leak from the carb before on the series 2, it too appeared to be from the bottom of the needle adjustment. I cant really remember how I stopped it! I think I just cleaned up the seat where the taper on the base of the needle fitted. Ref the oil returning to the tank, if you have air in the pipes you will be waiting a really long time.... the quickest way to bleed/prime the oil system is to fill the tank with oil, open the tap and starting from the tap, crack open the unions down to the pump. Once oil is seen at each union, tighten them back up. Then remove the bolt fitted to the end of the oil filter, tip the machine forward and using a small funnel, fill the oil filter and replace the bolt. Now lift the decompressor lever and wind machine for a while. you should start to see oil returning to the tank in short bursts. Start machine as per usual and check for any leaks at the unions. This system can be a pain if there are any air leaks, sometimes oil will not pump at all.
Darren
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 09 Jun 2013 at 12:06am
Very helpful thank you, I will try priming the filter as you suggest, as far as the Amal carb. is concerned and its leak, I see from a diagram , that it should have a cork "Gland" and a washer that the needle passes through, both missing on mine, but easy to fix. So back to the drawing board! I have not proceeded with a restoration until I can get it up and running to check the gears and clutch etc.
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 09 Jun 2013 at 11:49am
you have a diagram for the Amal??? I could only find very grainy poor drawings showing no real detail...... I wouldnt mind a copy if thats ok?
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 10 Jun 2013 at 1:34am
Its just the diagram from the Howard book showing the spare parts for the engine and carb, I will photo it and send you an email if you PM me your address.
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 11 Jun 2013 at 10:34pm


Well I have found out the reason for the leak, and made a new cork "Gland" and washer, I can see how it works, the needle passes through the cork "Gland" with a small washer behind it, if you have any leak, then adjusting the gland screw tightens it around the needle, if anyone wants to make one, the cork "Gland" is 5.5mm wide by about 1/4" long and the hole through the centre for the needle is a no 50 drill, about 75 thou. I have posted some illustrations from the Gem parts page showing the amal carb and the gland. QUESTION I can understand the air control screw, but what are the two small screws alongside for?
plonker
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Darmic1
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Quote Darmic1 Replybullet Posted: 12 Jun 2013 at 5:58pm
Hi Plonker, I don't think those 2 screws do anything....... Perhaps they are part of the manufacturing process for air/fuel ways. The screws are just to blank them off. Plus if there were ever a problem, then access is possible to clear an obstruction???
Ref the cork gland and washer....... Do you feel like making a spare one or two of each? If so I would be interested!  
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 12 Jun 2013 at 11:43pm
PM me your address and I will send you a couple of the cork glands, I made mine out of wine bottle corks in the lathe. same as I make the cork seals for the petrol taps.
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 16 Jun 2013 at 11:59pm
[IMG]" />[IMG]uploads/20130616_233624_DSC00453amal1.jpg" />[IMG]uploads/20130616_233705_DSC00454amal2.jpg" />[IMG]uploads/20130616_233744_DSC00455amal3.jpg" />[IMG]uploads/20130616_233827_DSC00456amal4.jpg" />

I made a few spare washers for the Amal carb. which has a "Cork Gland" to seal the needle, as seen in the diagram, there is a washer first which I believe is to stop the needle pushing bits of cork into the main jet channel, and the cork gland adjusting screw crushes it against the needle, very effective it is too. I thought members might want to make their own, so I have shown how I do it using my lathe, some people laugh at the thought of machining cork, but I dont know a better way, cork is very crumbly stuff, I have tried carving it with a razor blade, not very good, I make a simple "Plug Cutter" by filing teeth on a bit of tube, in this case 8mm external , about 6mm internal, drill the hole first with a no 50 drill (or make one out of a bit of wire) then use your cutter to cut the "Plug" try to cut down the friction by putting some "Set" on the teeth, only cut a little at a time, keep removing the cutter to check, if it breaks off in the tube, just push it out and check that you have got at least a 1/4" length, which is right for the amal, the little washers at the bottom of the photo I punched out of thin leather with a wad punch, I use the same process to make the corks for Fuel taps, using a bigger tube, you can make the cutter out of any metal handy, aluminium or copper fuel lines are handy, as it is only cork, you could probably get away with plastic tube, one final tip, try to use new corks that have not had a corkscrew bored through them, they dont like it up em!
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 17 Jun 2013 at 12:11am
Dont know why Photos did not appear, trying again
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burrboy
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Quote burrboy Replybullet Posted: 17 Jun 2013 at 11:32am
Nice job Philip soon have her working on the veg plot.
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ploughmen
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Quote ploughmen Replybullet Posted: 20 Jun 2013 at 7:29pm
Hi Phil the ploughmen here is that the same carb as fitted to a douglas sv54 engine
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 20 Jun 2013 at 11:51pm
Hello There, I am not sure, I have never owned a douglas engine, it seems that this was the carb that Howard fitted to all the British Junior engines, but there will be Douglas experts out there who will tell us.
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will_haggle
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Quote will_haggle Replybullet Posted: 21 Jun 2013 at 8:32am
I think it was fitted to the Trusty Steed with a Norton engine as well....
6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...
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Malcg
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Quote Malcg Replybullet Posted: 15 Aug 2013 at 11:58am
Re your carb I have same on my BJ unit, I have stripped and washed mine and re-assembled - seems fine - but I am not sure of the screw settings on the main needle jet and on the body where the butterfly valve is. I have a decent spark and am currently trying to start it - it is backfiring all the time - malcg
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series1gem
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Quote series1gem Replybullet Posted: 15 Aug 2013 at 8:41pm
Start out with carefully winding it on its seat, then out one and a half turns. After starting allow to warm up then adjust till it runs smoothly.
If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator
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Predator65
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Quote Predator65 Replybullet Posted: 06 Sep 2013 at 10:35am
Originally posted by plonker

Well, I have cleaned the Tank and the Amal carb in the acid bath, and actually fired it up today, and after retiming the magneto got it running after a fashion, I think something was living in the exhaust, because when fired up, the barn was full of what looks like confetti! QUESTION why does the Amal carb drip fuel from the needle adjuster? I can see where the fuel travels from the float chamber to the main jet and needle, but I cant see anything to stop the fuel trickling down through the threads? or am I missing something? QUESTION2 also how long does it take for oil to be seen pumping back into the tank? from an empty system just firing up for the first time? I have got oil in the feed pipe, and used oil in the return pipe, but nothing yet apearing in the tank.


Hi there
I know its and old post but I just read it through and just a thought, could the confetti you had flying around be the remnants of the head gasket asbestos filling ?

regards

Tel

God Im such a Needy Child!
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plonker
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Quote plonker Replybullet Posted: 06 Sep 2013 at 10:26pm
Hello again, Yes! that is exactly what it was, and I breathed the stuff in for quite awhile! I found out when I noticed a loss of compression, I made a new gasket out of Aluminium sheet, but I made sure that I trued up the head with a file first, and used some blue hydromar gasket sealant, now works fine.
plonker
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