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merryman
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Quote merryman Replybullet Topic: JAP engine
    Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 8:56pm
Being the local “old engine man” I have just been asked to get a big single JAP going after a 40 year lay up. It is a heavy lump, despite having an alloy block it took two of us to lift it. The owner has lost the starting handle, any ideas what it should look like?
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will_haggle
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Quote will_haggle Replybullet Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 9:45pm
Looks like a Lister D one, but Trustybloke says they won't fit. Is that a JAP 5 or a 6. There's a date letter in the engine no. and a date stamp somewhere towards the top of the cowl...
6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...
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will_haggle
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Quote will_haggle Replybullet Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 10:08pm
JAP Year Letters:-
P - 1920, 1940
N - 1921, 1941
E - 1922, 1942
U - 1923, 1943
M - 1924, 1944
A - 1925, 1945
T - 1926, 1946
I - 1927, 1947
C - 1928, 1948
S - 1929, 1949
W - 1930, 1950
H - 1931, 1951
Y - 1932, 1952
Z - 1933, 1953
D - 1934, 1954
R - 1935, 1955
V - 1936, 1956
F - 1937, 1957
O - 1938, 1958
G - 1939, 1959
Notes,
1. Reproduced from Russell McIntyre of New Zealand post on Donalds Rototillers Website.
2. Wartime codes are shown but no civilian engines were made for sale in this period.
3. Military engines used different coding.
4. JAP production year started on 1st September to 31st August so if you have a machine with date letter "C" it would have been produced from 01/09/1947 to 31/08/1948.

I've just spotted that the first 10 letters spell PNEUMATICS, I expect the next 9 would have spelt HYDRAULICS, but they'd already used up some of the letters....
6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...
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Stuart.
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Quote Stuart. Replybullet Posted: 19 Jun 2013 at 4:55pm
The starting handle for my early 1960,s JAP 4/3 engine fitted on my Howard 400 rotavator is a rather short handle and it looks almost like a letter "Z" in appearance.
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merryman
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Quote merryman Replybullet Posted: 19 Jun 2013 at 9:09pm
Thanks for the information. I can't find an engine number on it or any holes where one may have been. The black sticker has J A Prestwich on it plus information about starting procedure.
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howardhoe
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Quote howardhoe Replybullet Posted: 20 Jun 2013 at 1:20am
I think the engine number sometimes was stamped on the block itself. Just below the sticker JAP is pressed into the engine cowl, sometimes if you look really close the date is also pressed in there but very very small. My JAP 5 has it pressed in but would be underneath where your sticker is. My other JAP 5 doesn't have any date on it. Mine has a home made handle, just need a piece of pipe that fits into the front and cut out two grooves like the lister D as mentioned. Then weld yourself a handle to it. If yours has an impulse magneto should be very easy to start, normally just one turn on compression.
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steve.woollas
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Quote steve.woollas Replybullet Posted: 20 Jun 2013 at 7:40am
If all goes well at the weekend I will photograph a Jap starting handle for you. The JAP 5 and 6 both use the same handle. One very easy method of distinguishing between the two is that the 5 has a curved base to the flywheel casing and the 6 a flat one.--Steve
Keep On Cultivating
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merryman
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Quote merryman Replybullet Posted: 20 Jun 2013 at 8:09pm
I can't see a date letter but under the faint JAP letters pressed into the cowling is Model 6. The engine was fitted to a Welgar bale press and the owner intends to show the whole thing once I get it running.
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trusty220
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Quote trusty220 Replybullet Posted: 23 Jun 2013 at 6:44pm
I've got a few spare handles- what part of the country are you in?
Geoff
To infinity and beyond, but always back by 5 o'clock.
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merryman
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Quote merryman Replybullet Posted: 11 Oct 2013 at 9:07pm
Firstly apologies to Trusty220, I somehow missed his post with the offer of a handle. I made one, not too difficult, though the bore of the hole for it is a decidedly strange size. I had a go at getting it running in July, the exhaust valve was stuck and I freed it off, cleaned out the magneto and got a spark, cleaned out the carb, it was OK though the tank had a lot of sediment in it. Compression was still low and though it would fire, it wouldn’t run. That is as far as I got as I became busy at work. Anyway with a bit of free time this week, I took the head off and ground in the valves which resulted in much improved compression, and after a lot of fiddling with the plug gap, ending up with 0.010” and easy start (desperation), the thing finally ran. It is still a pig to start and I am going to try a new plug, the one in now is an L10 Champion, is this right? Are exhausts available, the flange is there but nothing else? Finally the governor, it is set to run at about two thirds throttle but there is no spring to open it up so if you press the cutout the throttle lever doesn’t move from the set position. Should there be a spring, and where?
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