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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Topic: Ransomed MG2
    Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 3:45pm



Hello,

Recently purchased a ransomes MG2 serial no 897, can anyone tell me what year it was made?

Also, I have had it running, but it is extremely hard to start, I can only get it to start by disconnecting the air filter and holding my hand over it while on the intake stroke then cranking it, then it will sometimes fire up if it feels like it, it's almost like its not pulling fuel in. The jets are clean but may be enlarged, however I fail to see how this would stop it running, it has good compression and a strong spark.

Any help would be great, Thanks


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wristpin
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Quote wristpin Replybullet Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 4:17pm
Suggests a weak mixture -
 is the choke closing properly ?
 is air being sucked in around worn choke and throttle butterfly spindles?
is the fuel level in the float chamber correct?
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 4:33pm
Thanks for the reply, from what i can see the choke does appear to be closing properly, it does not have a butterfly spindles like modern a modern carb, but a vertical slide the choke is part of this.

The level of fuel is correct in the chamber and overflows when the tickler plunger is pushed, what exactly is this tickler for?

Thanks
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Dieselhead
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Quote Dieselhead Replybullet Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 4:53pm
Take the inspection cover off the top of the gearbox. Thats 4 bolts
 
Then push the machine so the crown wheel turns
 
The date is stamped on it. You will have to wipe away the oil as you go, you will find itThumbs%20Up
Chris. I aint getting on no plane. Fool!
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wristpin
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Quote wristpin Replybullet Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by Rocboni

Thanks for the reply, from what i can see the choke does appear to be closing properly, it does not have a butterfly spindles like modern a modern carb, but a vertical slide the choke is part of this.

The level of fuel is correct in the chamber and overflows when the tickler plunger is pushed, what exactly is this tickler for?

Thanks

Just what you are using it for - to give a very rich mixture for starting - except it isn't!!!
Sounds as though you may have an Amal carb very similar to the one on my old Dennis. My starting routine is as follows.
Fuel on, flood with tickler, turn fuel off.
Throttle closed.
Choke on and crank over for a couple of compression strokes.
Choke off.
Throttle open about 1/4
Will then usually fire up within a couple of swings.
Remember to turn the fuel back on!  


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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 5:45pm
I wasn't really using the tickler, would this still cause it to be extremely hard to start?
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wristpin
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Quote wristpin Replybullet Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 9:31pm
Originally posted by Rocboni

I wasn't really using the tickler, would this still cause it to be extremely hard to start?


Quite possibly as the tickler is there to flood the carb for cold starting. With the Dennis I flood it until fuel squirts out of the two little holes around the float chamber rim.
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Ransomes256
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Quote Ransomes256 Replybullet Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 7:26am
The serial number is from 1941.
The carburettor needs to be flooded with the tickler to raise fuel level to ease starting.
If the magneto timing is too far advanced or the impulse mechanism is not free it will make starting more difficult if not impossible.
Neil
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 9:56am
Thanks for the date, so just because I have had it started doesn't mean the timing is correct? Although I did set the timing and points to the manual.
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Ransomes256
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Quote Ransomes256 Replybullet Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 2:20pm
Best check the magneto impulse just clicks at top dead center.
 
Also to eliminate the weak mixture mentioned in this thread tray to wrap an oily rag around the top of the carburettor to stop any air entering this way.
Neil
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expeatfarmer
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 26 Aug 2013 at 9:49am
Hi glad to hear you have it running. When I first rebuilt the engine on my 2, I tried numerous different spark plugs, eventually I found that heating the plug with a blow lamp helped to get it going the first time and having run for about an hour charging around the garden it became easier to start. This engine does seem to be very sensitive to old fuel and the type of oil used in the air cleaner, I use a straight sae 30.
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 26 Aug 2013 at 8:56pm
Hi Jonathan, I was getting a bit worried thinking that the engine wasn't going to run at all, if the engine is hard to start now, will it always be? I just can't find anything wrong with it! I have ordered a new plug although the one I have seems to be fine so will give that a try, the only thing it can really be is the fuel mix, compression is excellent, spark is strong after fitting the coil you gave me so its the only thing I can think of, I just can't work it out.
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wristpin
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Quote wristpin Replybullet Posted: 26 Aug 2013 at 11:43pm
Originally posted by Rocboni

Hi Jonathan, I was getting a bit worried thinking that the engine wasn't going to run at all, if the engine is hard to start now, will it always be? I just can't find anything wrong with it! I have ordered a new plug although the one I have seems to be fine so will give that a try, the only thing it can really be is the fuel mix, compression is excellent, spark is strong after fitting the coil you gave me so its the only thing I can think of, I just can't work it out.


Assuming that the engine has not recently been properly reconditioned it will be generally worn and is bound to be a bit temperamental! You either learn its quirks and learn to live with it or do a proper reconditioning job.
When you say "fuel mix" are you talking air to fuel or oil to fuel? I'm no MG expert but didn't think they were 2-stroke?
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 8:01am
4 stoke, by what do you mean by a proper reconditioning job? New rings ect?
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expeatfarmer
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 9:02am
Hi, having done it myself, just check that the magneto is firing/clicking at just before TDC on the compression stroke with both valves fully closed.
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wristpin
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Quote wristpin Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 10:58am
Originally posted by Rocboni

4 stoke, by what do you mean by a proper reconditioning job? New rings ect?


May be even a rebore.
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 11:07am
But if it has good compression what would be the point??
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wristpin
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Quote wristpin Replybullet Posted: 27 Aug 2013 at 2:18pm
Originally posted by Rocboni

But if it has good compression what would be the point??


May be none but is your idea of "good" the same as the manufacturer's - do you know what it should be and have you measured it?
Good compression does not necessarily equal good "suck" and going back to your original post it does seem that you may have a weak mixture.
If you have actually systematically checked all the things that you say you have it is probably just a case of an engine that is worn commensurate with its age an use and is a bit temperamental - find out what it likes and take it by surprise !


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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 28 Aug 2013 at 8:38pm
Hi Rhys
Today I have been sorting my old MG2 no 603, the ignition timing had slipped on the taper. Knowing that all sorts of issues can stop it running, I stripped the carb, cleaned the jets and filters. Checked the oil bath air cleaner, checked the tappet clearances. Tested the magneto coil cleaned and re set the points, bench tested the mag and cleaned and re set the plug. All of the above to eliminate any reasons for it not starting. Finally I followed the instruction manual precisely in terms of setting the mag timing by removing the head etc. Put it all back together, tickled the carb.set the choke and throttle to barely open, two turns on the crank with the de-compressor and bang off it went first pull. To be sure I set up a strobe timing light running off a battery timing was running at 50degrees advance which meant it was reluctant to slow run, backed off the advance by slackening the taper nut on the timing chain, now running at 25 degrees advance and ticking over nicely. The point of all the detail is that as a side valve 4 stroke engine the Mg2 is very prone to poor running if any one element of the settings is off. According to the book engine should run at 30 degrees advance but as it seems to start and run well as it is I think I may leave well alone rather than try to achieve 30 degrees. Good luck.
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Quote wristpin Replybullet Posted: 28 Aug 2013 at 9:05pm
That says it all - get everything as near as age and condition allows and you have a goer! 
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 29 Aug 2013 at 4:29pm
Thanks Jonathon, I will check everything over when I get my MG2 back together, as I have it stripped replacing main seals before painting, was your MG2 hard to start prior to you setting it up as you described?
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 30 Aug 2013 at 10:03am
Yes it was a real pig, now it starts on the first pull over compression !
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bristol boy
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Quote bristol boy Replybullet Posted: 15 Sep 2013 at 10:10am
hi I have a Bristol crawler and had it many years, it was a pig to start and I wouldn't take it to any shows as didn't want to look a plonker when it wouldn't start but with help from this web site I'm much happier with it. Also like you couldn't find much a miss with engine but of late have used the crawler to pull some chain harrows and some other little jobs and now will start with a good turn hope you get to bottom of it
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 15 Sep 2013 at 11:47am
I've yet to get another go at starting my engine, I had removed it to paint the crawler, but noticed after fitting a new clutch assembly that the Crankshaft was actually bent! Probably Ben dropped, Anyway got a replacement bottom half of a MG2 engine(thanks Jonathan), re used my barrel and head and rebuilt the engine, re seating the valves ect, but due to the weather I've not been able to fit it to the crawler to try, will update when I've had a go.
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 9:27am
Don't drop that one I think I only have four spare ones left!!Send me a photo when you have it finished.
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 21 Sep 2013 at 9:23am

This is how i got it.
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 21 Sep 2013 at 9:43am
having trouble uploading the new image, will try later
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expeatfarmer
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 21 Sep 2013 at 10:21am
Hi Rhys
Looks quite tidy, must look great after all your efforts is it running now?
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 21 Sep 2013 at 3:15pm



[IMG]uploads/20130921_151418_photo_2.JPG" height="320" width="240" />Above is what it looks like now...[IMG]uploads/20130921_151652_photo_2.JPG" height="240" width="320" />[IMG]uploads/20130921_151815_photo_5.JPG" height="240" width="320" />Jonanthan, I havent got round to getting the engine on yet, i have been busy machining a PTO, and after about 6hours turning the rear bearing carrier out of 130mm Dia mild steel, i happily produced the above parts, machine the front part to hold the cover tube, cut the cover tube to length, and  hey presto, you have a PTO for a MG2!




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Quote sdarmstrong Replybullet Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 12:17am
Looking well.
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expeatfarmer
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Quote expeatfarmer Replybullet Posted: 23 Sep 2013 at 11:15am
Very impressive Rhys, can I place an order for two please. How will you machine the splines for the output?
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Rocboni
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Quote Rocboni Replybullet Posted: 23 Sep 2013 at 8:08pm
Jonathan, I'll send you a private message, output on mine is just a 25mm keyed shaft.
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