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spawnofoldgit
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Quote spawnofoldgit Replybullet Topic: Project Allen
    Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 7:46pm
This is my latest toy. It was covered in mud, so its had a bit of a clean with the hose and washing up brush but it will be requiring an awful lot more!



Had a bit of trouble getting the lid off. Application of a persuader and some penetrating oil helped here





The big pile of mud is what came off the cutting deck before I set to with the hosepipe. One of the tank straps is non original but works. There is still fuel in the tank but it does smell rather odd. There was no key for the fuel tap so a universal one needed to be used.



Cutting deck has some rather lumpy pulleys and some really thick rust patches. No major holes though. The big lever is seized solid.



The backside and one little lever that moves



View from the back, there is a little electric plug in the middle - is this standard?



Round the other side, another stuck lever above the PTO thingy



A rather oversized flat battery



A loose pulley on the deck - where should it go?



Wiring will be fun - there are quite a few cut wires



It all looks a bit wonky from here. The pulley on the front has been braised in the past. I guess they drove into something! There is a trace of a sticker - what should it have looked like?



More stickers, I can see the bottom one said Allen - but what is over the top?

I would really appreciate any advice that you can give! There are two ID plates but they need a bit more of a clean to decipher. Plus one is behind the exhaust so I will need to move that first. Also where is a good place to start?! I have doused it all in oil and she is now in the dry. It will be a long term thing and I will try and update as and when progress happens!

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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 8:50pm
wow that's going to keep you busy for a while. steve d is the man to ask,but not sure how far away he is from you. good luck with the project and will hopefully see it at ardinley 2014.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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Simon Smith
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Quote Simon Smith Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 9:29pm
Ours had headlights, indicators and a 7 pin towing socket from new, I am now desperately tearing the house apart looking for photo's of the thing!!
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spawnofoldgit
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Quote spawnofoldgit Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 9:38pm
That would be nice to see, but don't go too mad looking!
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TITCH
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Quote TITCH Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 9:55pm
That's based on the Gutbrod/Motostandard 130, imported by Allen isn't it?
The red transfer on the side says 'Superior' ( got them)and the Allen one is part of one altogether with the globe on it.

Have a look at the Gutbrod forum Lenny,.. LOADS of info on there too, or, GAV694 on here with his Massey Ferguson Elf will point you in the right direction.. be very careful though, these fantastic machines are very addictive!
And, you have the lift arms too, quite a find there!
Titch
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spawnofoldgit
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Quote spawnofoldgit Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 10:17pm
Thanks Titch I will do a bit of googling!
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GAV694
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Quote GAV694 Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 10:18pm
Was this the one on the bay with ploughs and the option of a rotavator?
As Titch says its a Allen Motostandard 1030, which is a Gutbrod imported by Allen in the 60's. There may still be a year of manufacture plate on the underside of the tow hitch. A serial number plate on the right of the frame in the centre of the tractor and an engine serial number plate under the exhaust.
The decal that says Allen is the Allen 'Globe'
Trailer Electric socket is original but should have a sprung lid.
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GAV694
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Quote GAV694 Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 10:19pm

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TITCH
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Quote TITCH Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 10:22pm
Ah Ha, thought so John.. you are the man here...
As I said, these are a very very addictive machine, I tend to think you either like them or you don't.. but one thing is a certainty they are one hell of a useful tool, and the accessories..?? well.

I bet John will get you any bits you need when he drives over to Germany.. with a big... big.. trailer!
Seriously, John is a wealth of knowledge on these, but he 'Likes 'em Yella'!!

Titch
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GAV694
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Quote GAV694 Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 10:25pm
Still waiting to find out if the Germany trip is needed or not dont want to say too much yet though
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spawnofoldgit
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Quote spawnofoldgit Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 10:27pm
Thanks for the pictures and comments. I have the two ploughs and the rotavator too. Couldn't split up the bits! All the tines look very good condition. Hardly and wear on the ploughs either. Lots of rust on the one that was buried, that one will need a damn good soak in something to get the bolts moving
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GAV694
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Quote GAV694 Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 10:35pm
I did watch that one sell but it was just a bit too far for me to get.
Did you get the frame that goes under the tractor to mount the ploughs to?
If you decide to sell the reduction hubs (which you shouldn't do)give me a shout I have been looking for a set for a while now
I'm no expert on these but I have learned a lot since buying the Massey Elf which is basically the same as what you have.
They are a very useful tractor and its a challenge trying to find the 45 plus attachments that were made for them. As Titch indicated I have started shopping in Germany where they were made.
Cheers
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will_haggle
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Quote will_haggle Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 10:40pm



A couple of pictures to inspire you, these are good little tractors....
6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...
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will_haggle
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Quote will_haggle Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 10:52pm


6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...
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GAV694
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Quote GAV694 Replybullet Posted: 16 Sep 2013 at 11:29pm
I would start by looking at the engine and cleaning the carb/tank. Check the oil (probably best to change it) Then you could carefully use a rope on around the front pulley to pull start it (until you get the electrics sorted) You could take the dynastarter belt off. At least you will be able to check for a spark doing this. Don't forget to make sure you have neutral selected though.

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spawnofoldgit
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Quote spawnofoldgit Replybullet Posted: 17 Sep 2013 at 6:23am
Thank you all for the pictures. They will be a great help! Do you have a picture of the frame for the ploughs? I don't think I got that bit. I will go back to the seller and see if he can find any other parts if its missing.
I was wondering what all the levers did. The one for neutral does actually move so that is quite positive!
Of all people, you know who I amwho the world needs me to be. Im Wonder Woman
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GAV694
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Quote GAV694 Replybullet Posted: 17 Sep 2013 at 8:14am
See here where I posted the same thing for another 1030 owner

Cheers
http://www.gutbrod.co/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=98&sid=7c6c9fd2545c71dc420bf31a5ed534a0
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nigel
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Quote nigel Replybullet Posted: 17 Sep 2013 at 5:42pm
that steering wheel is exactly the same as the knackerd one on my holder, i have been trying to locate one of these for quite a while so its nice to know they were used on other tractors if anyone has a spare kicking about ime in the market pleaseWink
ime very posh
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GAV694
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Quote GAV694 Replybullet Posted: 17 Sep 2013 at 7:02pm
Originally posted by nigel

that steering wheel is exactly the same as the knackerd one on my holder, i have been trying to locate one of these for quite a while so its nice to know they were used on other tractors if anyone has a spare kicking about ime in the market please[IMG]http://www.tractorbox.co.uk/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif" height="17" width="17" align="absmiddle" alt="Wink" />

I bought a good second hand 1030 steering wheel for a pal in Canada but it was 43 Euro plus postage. I think they are getting harder to buy as the metal spokes swell up with rust and split the plastic/Bakerlite
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TITCH
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Quote TITCH Replybullet Posted: 17 Sep 2013 at 10:15pm
You see,
we never stop learning..

You've got a good machine here Lenny, especially with the attachments. Sadly we don't see too many of them about either. As much as I tend to favour WheelHorse tractors, these Gutbrods are built like tanks too, and with the PTO rear drive, all power operated implements are a good strong source of tools.
I'd take your time on this, it will be well worth it when it's done!
Titch
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Simon Smith
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Quote Simon Smith Replybullet Posted: 17 Sep 2013 at 10:26pm
Here's me on one when it was new also shows the frame for the plough.

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TITCH
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Quote TITCH Replybullet Posted: 19 Sep 2013 at 8:55am
Nice,

Still in the family Simon? The Gutbrod that is!
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nigel
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Quote nigel Replybullet Posted: 19 Sep 2013 at 5:50pm
thats exactly whats happend to mine all the bakerlite has split,i could repair it i suppose but it will be a lot of work, unless some one knows different!
ime very posh
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 19 Sep 2013 at 8:29pm
nigel. I had a wheel once on a grey fergie that had the same symptoms. I filled all the cracks with plastic padding and when rubbed down and painted with matt black I covered the surface with bees wax and buffed up. and you know,you could not tell it had been repaired. did not take long at all.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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nigel
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Quote nigel Replybullet Posted: 20 Sep 2013 at 6:11pm
ile have a go at that then john, thanksBig%20smile
ime very posh
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Simon Smith
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Quote Simon Smith Replybullet Posted: 21 Sep 2013 at 5:08pm
That one belonged to the Titsey estate, where my father was the head gardener. It got traded in for a new one after a few years, but after my father retired in 1977, they replaced that with a new compact. This meant widening all the doors into the kitchen garden and ruining the look of the lovely brick walls. They call it progress!
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spawnofoldgit
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Quote spawnofoldgit Replybullet Posted: 24 Sep 2013 at 9:14pm
Been busy on the Allen this evening. Trying to get whatever I can to move!
I have had some success to report however. The clutch pedal went from rock solid to moving and returning back to position via its springs. The mowing deck can now be lowered via the lever and moved back again and locked up one side (other side pin has rusted off), the big handle on the right hand side with the movable centre, that now moves but the middle bit doesn't return on its own yet. At the back I have some movement in the arms that the chains are on and very slight movement from the bit with the cable pulley on.
I got the spark plug out and looked down the hole, I think I can see two valves. Very dry ones.
I managed to free the dipstick and that also came out totally dry.
I managed to get the belt on the deck off the pulleys and I can now get at the main one on the front. The nut came off but I couldn't shift the woodruff key. I also can't shift the big screw underneath at the front. I am guessing that I am supposed to remove that to get the deck off at the front and the two nuts either side of the body to drop off the rear of the deck - if there is another way please let me know!!
Anyway all that took me the best part of 2 hours! So I have left it soaking in a whole oil cans worth of engine oil until I get time to have another tinker.
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GAV694
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Quote GAV694 Replybullet Posted: 25 Sep 2013 at 11:52am
The big nut at the front tensions the belt for the mower, you should be able to remove the two smaller nuts (17mm I think) from either side of the 2 front pulleys and remove the mower complete in one bit. you are correct about the two bolt either side on the body to drop the rear.
I would then oil up the mower and just leave it so you can concentrate on the Tractor. Sound like you may have a bit of work to do on the Engine, can it be turned or is it seized?
Cheers
John
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spawnofoldgit
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Quote spawnofoldgit Replybullet Posted: 26 Sep 2013 at 9:01am
Thanks, I will look for two bolts at the front.
Not sure about engine yet. It still has the belt attached on the front to the dynastart which I can't undo yet!
Im off work now for a couple of days, though I do have rather a lot of other things to do, I will make time to have a bit of a look and see what else I can get off/move!
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spawnofoldgit
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Quote spawnofoldgit Replybullet Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 4:50pm
Had a bit of time today after playing with the Land Rover.
Here are the results so far

Front pulley removed


Starter removed


Amazingly I only had to cut 2 wires off, 2 actually unbolted


Underneath of the removed cutting deck


Jammed blade. Looks like some sort of curly wire and some rope wrapped tight around it. Maybe the reason it was laid up


The top of the deck. Amazingly good nick. Left soaking in oil after a bit of a scrape off with a screw driver. There is a lot of very oily crap to one side, so I wonder if the engine leaked oil there rather a lot!



My one balls up of the day. Snapped the exhaust stud. More haste less speed to get at the rest - though the middle one seems impossible to actually get a spanner or a socket on. I only wanted to take the exhaust off so I can get at the plate underneath and see what it says!
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Quote Hillsider Replybullet Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 6:45pm
Originally posted by nigel

thats exactly whats happend to mine all the bakerlite has split,i could repair it i suppose but it will be a lot of work, unless some one knows different!


Hello all, not entirely in line with the thread but this link may be helpful to anyone needing steering wheel refurbishments. I have no idea of the costs involved but I gather that they are very good.

http://www.steeringwheelrestoration.co.uk/
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spawnofoldgit
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Quote spawnofoldgit Replybullet Posted: 06 Oct 2013 at 7:04pm
Thanks for that I have added it to my bookmarks for the future!
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GAV694
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Quote GAV694 Replybullet Posted: 08 Oct 2013 at 7:06pm
It may be that the home made exhaust pipe was welded to the flange with it already bolted to the engine leaving no access to the bolt.
If this is what has happened then you will have to cut something to get it off.
You should be able to get a second hand genuine exhaust, I bought one not so long ago.

For the snapped stud - If its a steel bolt I would hold a thick washer over it and weld through the hole onto the stud, then weld a nut onto the washer so it can be unscrewed. The heat of welding should break the bond the rust has created. I did this on a friends Defender which had 3 snapped exhaust studs. I tried at first to weld a nut directly to the stud but could not get a strong enough weld to allow the studs to unscrew.
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