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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Topic: Auto Culto Midgi Culto
    Posted: 19 Sep 2013 at 8:45pm
A quick note that may be of use to someone:

I've been using a Midgi-Culto for rotovating between rows on the allotment this year, and for the most part, it is a solid, relible machine, and is especially useful as I have the front mower attachment as well. The machine is fitted with a Villiers 515 "Lightweight" engine.

Over the summer, there has been some rough running, and difficulty with starting and slow running.

Having had a good look at it this week, the following faults have been fixed, resulting in a much nicer machine to use:

1. The mixture was excessivly rich - this was traced to two things, a slight bend in the float needle, and the black foam float had expanded with age. Replacing the float and needle has fixed the mixture, and generally mad the engine easier to start, and smoother at low speed.

2. The governor is an airvane type, with a tube nut and locking screw to adjust the speed. At some point over the summer, the tube nut had disappeared, taking the spring tension off the governor. Replacing the nut and lock screw has fixed the inconsistent engine speed. The locking screw is inside the tube nut, and requires a 1/8" AF allen key to undo it.

Hope that might help someone else!

Jim.
The Allen & Simmonds Register

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For users of Auto Culto, Autogardener, Horticulto, Midgiculto and other Allen & Simmonds products.
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simar kid
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Quote simar kid Replybullet Posted: 21 Sep 2013 at 9:51pm
well done jim all those faults will have driven most of us crazy. thanks for posting the results.
Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 7:40pm
Given the machine a good working this afternoon, and discovered a couple more faults - the first was an easy fix, with an intermitent spark plug cap.

The second is caused by the carb getting hot, so that the machine will stop after a period of heavy work, and won't go again until the carb has cooled. This is compounded by the carb being sandwiched between the engine and gearbox, with the prmary chaincase and engine mounting making up another two sides of the box. The exhaust is also in close proximity, infact it shares a manifold! I think I may need to fabricate a heat shield.

Just to finish off, I also found that one of the manifold bolts (the shared one), has stripped its thread, so I see some serious repairs in the next couple of weeks.

Jim
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For users of Auto Culto, Autogardener, Horticulto, Midgiculto and other Allen & Simmonds products.
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Andy Frost
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Quote Andy Frost Replybullet Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 8:00pm
Jim , the manifold bolt problem was THE biggest issue with Villiers lightweights , a helicoil is the only way to go.

Andy.
Early Villiers Twostroke spares Always Wanted
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 22 Sep 2013 at 10:02pm
Andy,

I had a feeling that might have been the case!

I've done a bit of reading of the parts manual, and it seems that the other two carb options for this engine series (S10/2 and B12/5) both have insulaing sleeves or spacers between the carb and the engine, but the B10/1 only has a thick paper gasket onto the manifold, so it looks like carb temperature was marginal at the best of times. My first run of the afternoon lasted about 20 minutes (rotovating), then I got about 35 mins rotovating and  grass cutting, and the last grass cutting run stopped after 40 mins, as I'd run out of grass, but the air temp had dropped a few degrees by then.

I'll have to have it all apart to sort out the manifold bolt, so I'll see what can be done (and if there is a gasket missing anywhere).

Jim.
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will_haggle
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Quote will_haggle Replybullet Posted: 23 Sep 2013 at 9:22am
The B10/1 was based on an earlier carburettor, fitted to the iron engines, these would plonk away all day in a cement mixer box. The lightweight range is made of aluminium so greater heat would be transferred to the carb. Aluminium would have been chosen for it's ease of casting and light weight. A heat insulating block would sort it but you may need some longer studs.   
6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 27 Sep 2013 at 8:12pm
Some further notes that may be of use to someone:

The secondary chain drive from the gear box is adjusted by moving the gearbox on its mounting. Unlike other AutoCulto models, on the MidgiCulto, this can be done without removing the access plate on the main body of the machine, as the gearbox retaining bolts are accessable from the top of the machine.
You will, however, have to remove either the access plate or the primary chain covers to assess the tension. I would recommend the chain covers as they expose more chain, and are much easier to take on and off. Removing the access plate requires a wheel to be removed!
Failure to monitor chain tension with result in damage to castings of the body or chaincase, as there isn't much clearance.
Remeber to adjust the primary chain as well, as moving the gearbox alters the gearbox to engine distance.

Fitting the engine sprocket The sprocket needs to be fitted with the boss away from the crankcase, in order to get the chain line correct. You may need to skim the sprocket boss so that you can get the V-plex pulley far enough onto the crankshaft for it to align with the mower sprocket.

Jim.
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 28 Sep 2013 at 8:36pm
Helicoil fitted on the exhaust studs, so the manifolds now bed down properly.

Whilst the engine was off the machine, I've also repaired the very bent govenor air vane and adjuster screw, and bent the operating rod so that it misses the air vane, cylnder and cowling. Hopefully it will work a bit better now!

Jim.
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 29 Sep 2013 at 7:53pm
Well, a bit more progress!
The engine is fitted back on the machine, with drive chains lined up and adjusted, and the V-plex pulley correctly lined up.
Further faults have been found with a damaged throttle cable, and I can't get the engine to run reliably at low speed, but at least it starts and runs!
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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 29 Sep 2013 at 8:51pm
While the covers were off yesterday, I had a look at the flywheel and it is stamped 04/62, so I can put a proper age to that machine now.

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jim beacon
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Quote jim beacon Replybullet Posted: 04 Oct 2013 at 7:33pm
So, I'm finally getting somewhere with this!

Curing the inlet manifold airleaks has allowed me to set up the carb properly, tickover is at about 950rpm, and flat out is about 2900rpm.

A new throttle cable means that the linkage moves easily, and now the govenor is straighend out, it works as well.

V-plex pulley is free, lubricated and aligned with the mower pulley.

The mower drive belt is a B27 - this means B section, and 27" total length.

Now for the tricky bit......
The belt tension is critical for correct operation of the V-plex pulley - too loose and the mower won't drive, too tight and the V-plex clutch won't release. It is set coarsly by moving the mower deck backwards and forwards on its quick-release mounting (three possible positions), and fine belt tension is set by moving the engine on its mountings, however, this will also alter the primary chain tension, so a compromise must be reached!

Just got the recoil start to sort out now.

Jim.

The Allen & Simmonds Register

http://www.g1jbg.co.uk/autoculto

For users of Auto Culto, Autogardener, Horticulto, Midgiculto and other Allen & Simmonds products.
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