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Series 1 Rotary Hoes Gem

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Forum Name: Projects
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URL: http://www.tractorbox.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3723
Printed Date: 07 Jul 2020 at 7:06pm


Topic: Series 1 Rotary Hoes Gem
Posted By: Darmic1
Subject: Series 1 Rotary Hoes Gem
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 6:14pm
My new project arrived today. A series 1 Rotary Hoe, Gem, Number G1384.
This one is mine and will be receiving the same treatment as the previous series 2.



Replies:
Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 6:22pm
Looks a very sound starting point.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 6:53pm
Its a Non runner with a suspected stuck valve, However, After removing the head and valve chamber the valves and piston are in amazing condition. Not seized in any way with hardly any wear, but compression seemed low? and it turned over far too easy?


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 7:01pm
Head gasket trouble perhaps?

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 7:16pm
There are some issues though, A broken Chain case, came with a replacement. A heath robinson affair for an exhaust, a broken cleat to the right wheel, rotten rotor covers and some bent metal framing. Thats what I found today at least. Here are a few more pictures.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 7:20pm
Could be head gasket, I think the head has been off recently as the piston has no carbon on it whatsoever. The gasket I removed also had the remains of sealer of some description on, which makes me suspect its been apart not too long ago, and they didnt replace the head gasket when reassembled.
 Where is the best place for British Junior Engine gaskets? I got the last ones from Mr C? Quite expensive from memory?


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 7:53pm
I dont know of any other source, than mr c, but i was recently given a brandnew copper gasket to go on top of the cylinder block still in the original howard packaging that i'm going to use on my series2.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 8:17pm
Mr C it is then! Both the copper 'o' ring gasket and the cylinder head gaskets are flat. I would think they have been re-used several times and are no longer creating a seal. The valves have no pitting and seat tightly, but I will regrind them as a precaution. The Piston is tight in the bore with minimal movement, may remove it to check the rings. But usually broken rings score the bore. There are no marks at all nor any lip to indicate any significant wear.
I havent cleaned anything here, Its as it came off.


Posted By: john webster
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 8:24pm
what a good project.this will keep you amused for a week or two.i hope it does not take as long as my simar project because it must have been the worst thing to attempt as the first removation. its been a total rebuild from wheels to rota guard and engine,and i can say with all honesty its taken me 19 months so far

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simars till the world now ive got mine mobile !!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 8:26pm
Got to admire 19months dedication! Respect!
The series 2 Ive just finished took just over 4 months, It seemed like forever though...


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 8:30pm
I allways find its the little finishing off details that take the most time

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 8:32pm
Or the waiting for parts!


Posted By: howardman
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 8:36pm
grt to see another well photographed howard gem project underway...not good for taking photos  myself.......but they add so much to the projects/posts/forum


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 8:42pm
Thanks, I always take lots of photo's. It helps when it comes to re-assembly, Describing a particular problem and often useful for ordering parts. They also show some quite unbelievable things, like the home made exhaust that was fitted to this machine earlier in the post.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 8:50pm
Can anybody date this machine for me please. This one is going to be with me for some time and I would like to get as much history as I can for it.
Here are some more photo's.


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 8:53pm
I know number G367 (which is my earliest example ) was made in sept 1942, try a pm to hortiman and he can probably date it to the year for you.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2011 at 9:03pm
PM sent, Thanks for that!


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 5:55pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

Its a Non runner with a suspected stuck valve, However, After removing the head and valve chamber the valves and piston are in amazing condition. Not seized in any way with hardly any wear, but compression seemed low? and it turned over far too easy?
check the tappet clearances and that the decompressor isnt holding the valve fractionly open.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 6:37pm
Have had a look at the cylinder head today, This could be the problem. There is a lot of corrosion to the cooling fins, and in general to the exposed cylinder head. (Part not covered by the cowling.) Resulting in a lot of missing metal both around the spark plug area and the front part of cylinder head. Could mean there is insufficient surface area to create a good seal. If any one has a spare cylinder head? PM me please?
Here is a photo....Could also be the screw which goes into the cylinder head, there is a lot of oil around this area. What would this screw be used for?


Posted By: mowersman
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 6:39pm
I've seen some bad ones but never as bad as that, what plug does it take, long or short reach

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The more I work with petrols, the more I like diesels...
Yeovil, Somerset


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 6:40pm
It has a Champion D16


Posted By: mowersman
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 6:52pm
I would certainly be looking for another head if I were you, unles you can get it milled very slightly to get a good sealing surface

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The more I work with petrols, the more I like diesels...
Yeovil, Somerset


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 7:11pm
I think some of the strength would have gone out of this with all the corrosion. I also wonder about the cooling now as most of the front cooling fins are all but gone.
Im kinda hoping somebody here may have a spare one in reasonable condition, who could be pursuaded to exchange it for some folded paper Wink!
Failing that the list of parts from Mr C will be getting a little longer.....and more expensive.


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 7:29pm
Ive just had a look through my store and unfourtunatley the only spare ive got is also in very poor condition.sorry.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 7:34pm
Thanks for looking!, I think most of the early ones are now in this condition, they are now at least 65 years old. If it hasnt been dry stored all its life or been replaced at some point then I guess most will be the same. I will give Mr C a call tomorrow.....


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 7:36pm
Would it be the sort of thing you could get cast? I had some weights cast for a wacker years ago, wasnt that expensive, but unfourtunatly the old boy who ran the place has died so they shut up shop.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 7:47pm
We dont have any sort of heavy industry around here, the last machine shop shut down and moved away last year. I think I will have get a good second hand one.


Posted By: the pig
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 8:07pm
Pig Hi mate looks like you have a lot to do to make it as good as the one you did for me as it runs like a clockwork orange ,Approvedont rush it and take your time i'm sure it will be a supper job when compleated as the last one is.Big%20smile

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eddie the howard lover


Posted By: enginear
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 8:11pm
Hi Darmic1 with any engine if you think the compression is low it's worth checking the cyl head to see if it's warped this can be done using a straight edge or a good quality steel rule and feeler's if it requires attention see if you can get an old trctor cab lower front or side window which is flat then use a sheet of emery and face off the head,the best thing for doing job's like this is to get a piece of steel about 35-40mm thick and have it milled flat and keep in a wooden box well oiled it will last for years not a cheap thing to do and if you can get another head that's better, then this would be a first choice.   

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simple


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 8:15pm
Just going through everything to see what parts it needs. Seems it wasnt a stuck valve after all causing the non start. Could be cylinder head, head gasket or as s1g suggested the valve lifter or tappet clearance. Will have to work through all suspects, have already ruled out piston, rings and valves. So just the others to check now. Going to call Mr C tomorrow to get prices for gaskets and see if he has cylinder head.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 8:19pm
Enginear, thanks for the tip, think im going to order up a good second hand if I can. I may well be able to reface the head, but I think there is too much corrosion. As you said It could be warped, maybe because the metal is overheating as its lost so much cooling area?


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 7:29pm

All was going so well...... got the valves, springs and colletts out of the valve chamber, cleaned them. Took the barrel off the engine, cleaned that and inspected the lining, small amount of wear only to be expected with its age and definately not serious. Took the rings off the piston to clean and inspect them, top 3 fine.... the 4th, lower oil control ring snapped on removal... doh!!!

 


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 7:36pm
It gets worse.... After that little set back I decided to clean up the valve chamber ready for reassembling the valves etc. When the Phone rang, switched off the bench grinder with the wire wheel on, put the valve chamber on the parts washer lid and walked away to answer the phone... CRASH... The vibration of the wheel slowing down caused the valve chamber to fall off the lid onto the concrete floor and now has a lovely crack in it!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 7:49pm
Any one know if its viable to get this welded?


Posted By: mowersman
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 8:15pm

Depends on what you would consider to be viable. To get it profesionally plasma welded will set you back an awful lot of money, I was quoted 275 to repair my Trusty drawbar bracket. You might be able to find a small workshop or private individual who is COMPETANT at cast welding. Then it would need to be Vee'd out, heated to a high temperature and welded, a little bit at a time. Then it needs to be left to cool for a long time. The profesional companies leave it in a slowly cooling oven for about a day, though under a large pile of ashes is ok aparently. It would then need to be machined flat and the whole head checked for distorsion (quite lightly). I would say that if you can find a replacement, do, but if not then go for it, there is nothing to loose.

BTW I have never tried this, All was learned when I was researching how to repair the draw bar bracket on my trusty.
Andrew


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The more I work with petrols, the more I like diesels...
Yeovil, Somerset


Posted By: mowersman
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 8:16pm
Just another thought, how thick is it?

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The more I work with petrols, the more I like diesels...
Yeovil, Somerset


Posted By: mowersman
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 8:21pm
As for the ring, go to Cox and Turner
http://www.coxandturner.co.uk/holding.php - http://www.coxandturner.co.uk/holding.php
They aren't the cheapest about but John Cox is the most helpful person I've ever dealt with and the service is excellent. It shouldn't be much more than 7-8 is the ring is a standard type.
Andrew


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The more I work with petrols, the more I like diesels...
Yeovil, Somerset


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 8:27pm
Hi Andrew thanks for the advice It sounds expensive, think it might be cheaper to replace it. I dont know of anywhere near me that could do that sort of work, There doesnt seem to be any kind of engineering in Berkshire now.  Ive managed to source a replacement oil control ring, though I will need to file a small amont from one of the ends. 
 If you mean the valve chamber then its about 3/8ths inch thick at a guess?


Posted By: mowersman
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 8:41pm
There may be a solution, give me a little while and i'll look into it.
Andrew


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The more I work with petrols, the more I like diesels...
Yeovil, Somerset


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 8:49pm
Ok, thanks...


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 9:26pm
Hi when i know for certain that mine is okay then i will have a spare but due to other commitments it will be a few months before i know as every time i part with my spare i end up needing it, but once my series2 is finished i will be able to let you know.
In the meantime if you get stuck in the unit next door to me is a firm with a highly skilled welder who if anyone can repair it will be able to at reasonable cost, only a couple of hours from you , i can get you their number if you decide to go this way.


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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 9:31pm
Hi s1g, thanks for that, pass on the number via PM if you wish and I will bear it in mind. Contacted Mr C today, He can supply Gaskets, Replacement oil control ring and possibly a good cylinder head, Will have to call him back regarding the valve chamber.... It was one of those days where I should have stayed in bed!


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 9:39pm
Ok i'll ask him what it is next time i see the boss,You'll need to ask John about getting Ivor to weld it, you wont get any sense out of ivor direct, but he is the best welder ive ever seen, and i know he can do cast.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: hortiman
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 10:10pm
I have a spare one in the barn, probably got ring as well, where are you situated?  PM me.
Regards
Chris


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"God speed the plough" Preferably on RED Diesel


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 10:46pm
Cheers guys for the help and advice today, really appreciate it.
The day didnt start too well and went down hill rapidly, Just had to walk away from it in the end. Spent most of the afternoon asking myself 'why me?' Still, back to work tomorrow, where its wacky races all day on the M4!


Posted By: Charlie
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 9:06am
It might be worth asking Cox & Turner about repairing the crack if you cannot get a spare. It is the sort of thing they do.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 1:02am
Hi Guys, Have sent a few emails with pictures to a couple of places that weld cast and re-machine the surfaces, just waiting to hear back, I will post details of companies that offer a reasonable price. If I get a replacement then this will still be worth repairing as it is such good condition.... except for the crack!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 1:37am
The Carb got some attention today, Completely stripped down, soaked in the parts washer and then a clean on the brass wire wheel....Before
 


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 1:39am

Once dismantled and cleaned....



Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 1:43am
Re-assembled, new washers... After


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 1:46am
Moved onto the air cleaner next... Once apart, I found this... I believe it to be an Original Horse Hair filter? As described on the brass label of the air filter, anybody confirm?


Posted By: lawnmowerboy
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 8:04am
wow. youre getting good at this restoration buisness

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Grow old, not up!!!


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 6:02pm
just check with those carbs that there isnt much sideways play on the butterfly shaft as this will alow air to be drawn in causing rough running.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 7:32pm
There is virtually no play in the shaft at all on this one, The series 2 I did last year had quite a bit of play in it. It was fixed using a small piece of tin, cut and rolled into a tube which slid over the butterfly shaft thus removing the play.


Posted By: lawnmowerboy
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 10:06pm
aah good idea that ive not tried that.

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Grow old, not up!!!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2011 at 9:33pm
Have now ordered Cylinder head gasket and O ring gasket..... Ouch that hurt the wallet!


Posted By: farmers boy 2
Date Posted: 24 Jan 2011 at 9:48pm

these things are never cheap !!! and when you need some bits what do you do !!! how long do you think before you can try to fire the engine ???



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Kim. He's not a newbie, just a well preserved secondhand model


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2011 at 8:30am
Will be visiting Hortiman this week to hopefully get the remaining parts needed for the engine... Once I have all the bits then its just a case of cleaning and re-assembly. Hopefully in a week or two it should be running.
Im not going to paint anything until the engine is running, then I can check the bearings, clutch, gears, chain and rotors are all working ok. As we are all aware with the cost of getting parts for these older machines the restoration will be "only replace if its neccessary!"


Posted By: farmers boy 2
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2011 at 9:55am
thats smart thinking leave the painting till last !!! that how i would go about it too even if it means stripping down again !!! good luck with this gem and lets hope that you hear the engine fires up soon !!!

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Kim. He's not a newbie, just a well preserved secondhand model


Posted By: the pig
Date Posted: 28 Jan 2011 at 11:13pm
Pig thats a good though as that will save on paint as that cost a lot of bread, look foward to hearing it run, as that is some oldy machine you got thier, im sorry i could not afford to do it up myself but i know it's in good hands, you have the time and patienace to do it up...Star

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eddie the howard lover


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2011 at 3:48pm
After travelling the width of the country..... and back! I now have all the engine parts required for this restoration. Chris aka Hortiman kindly invited me over to his, and has provided me with valve chambers, exhaust and piston rings and a few other goodies! Huge thanks Chris Thumbs%20Up. I then travelled East to deepest darkest Essex to the Gent who previously owned this machine. He was able to provide a cylinder head in great condition, a complete spare BJ engine and a spare Series A Wico magneto.... The spare engine has been stripped for some parts namely a good valve guide, as most seem to be excessively worn. I have managed to find an Engineering works based in my home town, they have the replacement valve chamber from Hortiman, and are currently pressing out the worn valve guides and fitting 1 new guide (exhaust) and 1 good used guide (inlet). I decided to send this work out as I do not want to damage another valve chamber!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2011 at 4:06pm
Here are some pictures as things progress... The two cylinder heads compared.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2011 at 4:30pm
Engine minus oil pump, Checking camshaft for wear, cam followers and replacing valve lifter gasket and Magneto drive gasket...


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2011 at 7:21pm
Its good to see it all starting to come together, bet it wont be long till you have it running.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: will_haggle
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2011 at 8:47pm
It's going to be another great restoration and should run like new......I bet you can't wait to swing the handle.......


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6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...


Posted By: the pig
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2011 at 4:37pm
Pig I see you are wining at last , I'm sure it will be a great job when done I can't waite to hear it runningThumbs%20Up

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eddie the howard lover


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 9:01pm
I took the engine off today. This will enable me to clean the flywheel fan and the back of the engine easier. I will also have access to the clutch bell housing, as on the previous restoration I found an inch thick layer of congealed grease, mud and oil when replacing the clutch plate... This one was no different. However the clutch itself came off easily on this one. Here are a couple of pictures, the first shows the bell housing after scraping out the goo.... and being sprayed with degreaser. The second shows the clutch plate, not too bad, but a little worn. A new one will be fitted soon. 


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 9:10pm
 
The Magneto also had a makeover today... Its previous owner had a polythene bag wrapped over to keep it dry... It ended up being wrapped around the impulse spring, preventing it from springing.... Now been fixed and what an awkward job retensioning the spring was? Needed 3 pairs of hands! Here are some before and after pictures. Were these painted or left aluminium?
 


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 9:31pm
If you ever struggle to get a clutch off like you did on the last one ivefound an internal puller attached to a slide hammer makes quick work of getting them off when stuck.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 9:36pm
I have a 3 arm bearing puller... I undo the bolts on the arms, invert them, replace the bolts and put all 3 arms inside the centre of the metal clutch plate, wind up the centre thread and bang, its off! The last one had been stood up to its axle in water and the clutch was rusted to the centre shaft, I tried heating it up, freezing it, several different penetrating sprays... In the end did the above and left a reasonable amount of tension on it overnight.


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2011 at 9:39pm
usually works, but the slide hammer also gives it a shock load, can sometimes shift things that an ordinary puller cant.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2011 at 9:48pm
Tested the Magneto tonight... No spark! Checked all the insulating washers are on the correct sides of the stop tags, all appeared to be in the right places. Had a spare Condensor and Points, though not tested decided to swap them anyway as they are in a much less used condition. Now have a spark! however its not very strong. The entire Mag was stripped down again to recheck everything.... Leaving the cover off the Mag and observing the points operation a spark is produced across the contacts. All appears to be ok until I refit the HT lead and spark plug, then the spark vanishes. The Plug is an almost new Champion D16 and the HT lead is in very good condition with no breaks in the insulation. HELP???


Posted By: mowersman
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2011 at 9:55pm
Condenser.

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The more I work with petrols, the more I like diesels...
Yeovil, Somerset


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2011 at 10:06pm
I wanted to check the coil aswell. As Ive heard or read somewhere that the copper windings tend to corrode. How do I test a coil? I have a multimeter, but Im unsure of what and where to test and what would be a good or bad reading?  


Posted By: mowersman
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2011 at 10:39pm
Set it to a high ohm reading, it is normally 10k or 20k ohms. then test between the HT point on the coil and some clean bare metal. A good reading for a Wico A will be 4k-6k ohms, a bad reading will be significantly less or no reading, indication open circuit.
The coils seem pretty good in Wico A's I've only had one fail on me, but that had been sat outside for many many years. If there is sparking between the points, then it indicates the condenser is shot. They coil may be a problem as well though, just pray it isn't, It will be about 65 to get it rewound.
Andrew


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The more I work with petrols, the more I like diesels...
Yeovil, Somerset


Posted By: will_haggle
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2011 at 11:29am
That mag looks like an ex-military one, alloy top with weatherproof connector....



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6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...


Posted By: mowersman
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2011 at 1:43pm
A lot of BJ and Jap engined gems seem to have them, I've very rarley seen them on much else, except ex military kit...

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The more I work with petrols, the more I like diesels...
Yeovil, Somerset


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2011 at 3:58pm
Thanks for the advice, will order up a new condensor and test the coil later this week.
Would these Mags have been fitted during this period mainly because these machines were produced during the war years and Rotary Hoes/Howard made use of what was being produced at this time?


Posted By: enginear
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2011 at 7:03pm
That's quite possible,i know Clifford did,but i think the Gem came out in 1948, another point has anyone ever seen a BJ engine fitted to anything else i know the J.A.P. was used for a lot of thing's but the BJ?

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simple


Posted By: hortiman
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2011 at 8:17pm
I imagine Howard would have kept these engines for their own use as materials were in short supply during some years of production, I have not seen one on another type of machine.
Here is a photo I took in Australia a few Years ago, It is as you can see a Howard Rotary Hoe, this is fitted with the Australian version of the BJ, which I think was known as an AJ .
Chris


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"God speed the plough" Preferably on RED Diesel


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2011 at 11:22pm
Correct me if Im wrong but I think Ive read the Rotary Hoes "Roteho"  started production around 1940ish? This later became the Rotary Hoes "Gem" from a series 2 onwards? Then known as the Howard "Gem" In later models 3 to 5.
It is also my understanding that the BJ engine was Howards own?
I do like those wheels on Aussie version! are they a bronze alloy or something like? I guess AJ meant Australian Junior?


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 8:48pm
The Roteho gem was introduced in 1942, i believe around May time. The first machine was G101, i have G367 produced in September 1942, these early machines had the cycle type handlebars, no reverese and no diff lock. At G951 the more familiar type of handlebars were introduced along with a diff lock.
I belive in 1947 the series 2 with a reverse gear was introduced, this was at number G4801. My series 2 G9966 is 1948 and still has a brass plate on the rotor shield with Roteho on it.
Series 3's still had the label "manufactured by Rotary Hoes Ltd" but were called the Howard Gem.


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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 9:04pm
This one is G1384, A series one, No Reverse but has a diff. Its brass plate does say Roteho, It has the later type handlebars with a slightly different swinging bar than the latest incarnation. It is curled back where it is bolted to the main bars. This can be seen in this photo. The 2nd photo is the series two which has the more common type handlebar fitted.
 


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 9:24pm
I'd forgotten about that, yes series 1's do have that type of bar.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 2:53pm
Tested the coil today, set multimeter to 20k ohms and it tested at 5.21k ohms. So I guess from that then the coil is good and it must be the condenser at fault as advised. Always pays to check though!
Have been polishing the aluminium mag cap, its getting there, needs a bit more elbow grease.....I may clear coat laquer it when finished and do the rest of the mag in black.


Posted By: lawnmowerboy
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 3:52pm
the mags are nearly always kept bare ali but thats looking quite good
i think it must havebeen the military style one with the braided wire shielded HT lead

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Grow old, not up!!!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2011 at 4:32pm
Have just ordered a new condenser, Copper HT lead and a cap from John Cruse. That should sort the lack of spark!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2011 at 9:31pm
Im suffering from itchy fingers! I want to get on with things...... But Im still waiting for a call from the engineering works who have the valve chamber to say its ready, with its newly fitted valve guides.
So! Whilst I wait.... I decided to do something. I know I said I wasn't going to paint until the engine was running.... I just had to get my hands on the Gem again, Ive become an addict! Today the mag got a coat of etch primer and a top coat of gloss black.....The cap had another polish then a coat of clear to keep the shine.....
 


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2011 at 9:35pm

Still hadn't satisfied my need to tinker, So I painted the Barrel and Cylinder head in black smoothrite..... 



Posted By: ransomesmg6
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2011 at 7:39am
Very nice Darmic, a coat of paint changes everything doesn't it, Well Done!!!

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Remember!!
Nothing runs like a Deere!!
But..
Nothing trots like a Horse!!


Posted By: the pig
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 6:25am
Pig i see you have got the bug can't leave it alone for to long as you might suffer withdrawl systems. you are doing another great jod, but all good things cost a arm and a leg, looking foward t hearing it runningThumbs%20Up

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eddie the howard lover


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:07pm

Evening! Ive decided to reload all the material previous to the forum hiccup! So here goes....



Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:11pm
The new parts for the Mag arrived from John Cruse at the Mower centre. His prices are much more reasonable than IIS. Here are the pics of the new Wico Condenser, Copper core HT lead and the Non Resistive spark plug cap.... All for 17.80 incl of postage.


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:16pm
Thankyou, i've been looking forward to the next installment, helps keep me motivated with my next project.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:17pm
Taken the Clutch assembly out also due to wear on the plate and scoring to the metal parts. Most of this scoring has been removed with a Random orbit sander using progressively finer grades of paper. Here is a picture of the scoring and the clutch assembly, just waiting for a new plate to arrive....


Posted By: pmackellow
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:17pm
John is very knowledgable and helpful, thats why I normally suggest him as a parts supplier...

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Collector of Tarpen, Wheelhorse, International Cub Cadet, Landmaster, Cooper Stewart, Farmfitters, Jobber, Jalo, Ro-lo, Sisis and literature


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:19pm
Thanks s1g, Been busy, took 6 days off work and spent 4 in the garage, so things have progressed. Will hopefully meet you Saturday at Tractor World, you wouldnt know of anyone who might have a set of Gem wheels going spare? would you?


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:23pm
Cleaned out the clutch bell housing and removed some extremely sharp casting burrs with the Dremel, the most useful tool I own. I then painted the inside housing with Smoothrite to hopefully stop the build up of grime again...


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:23pm
I'll have to have a look, i cant remember what ive got round the back of work,I know i used one spare set on my twin cylinder, do i take it theyre for this gem as the design changed slightly over the years?

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 9:29pm
Yes please for series 1 or 2, I think they are both the same? Its just that I have a block paved drive and I think the weight of the beast clonking over it with these cast cleats will do untold damage to the blocks!



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