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Howard Bantam with Villiers Mk15 HS

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Category: The Main Forum Area
Forum Name: Projects
Forum Discription: Restorations and projects
URL: http://www.tractorbox.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=7577
Printed Date: 10 Dec 2019 at 2:05pm


Topic: Howard Bantam with Villiers Mk15 HS
Posted By: Darmic1
Subject: Howard Bantam with Villiers Mk15 HS
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2013 at 11:13pm
This is my next project.......... Its another Freebie, although not complete (missing the back end, rotors and shaft) Its fairly sound. Lots of original paint and no serious rust issues. The engine appears to be missing the exhaust and the air filter. I dont know how long this has been stood, It has some compression but think for my piece of mind I will strip it down and rebuild it.



Replies:
Posted By: Martinh
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2013 at 6:35pm
At least the tyres are looking good  It's all nuts and bolts and Villiers engine spares seem easy to get . They were a nice little machine 

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Martin. The Village Idiot


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 7:51pm


Yes Martin, the tyres are very good! Not much wear which makes me think its not been worked too hard. Another good thing is there is no play in the wheels either.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 7:59pm
I removed the Villiers from this machine about a week ago. Once home started to assess it and make a shopping list...... It has a little compression, not enough for it to run though. It turns nice and freely with no horrible noises but no spark at all. It will need an exhaust, an air filter and a carb kit. S1G informs me these engines have flakey coils, so a new coil and condenser will also be added to the shopping list. A set of gaskets, a new plug, lead, a slosh of fresh oil and hopefully she will run again.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:03pm
Here are some pictures of the dismantling...... This first picture shows the rocker cover removed. First impressions would indicate something amiss with the exhaust pushrod, its not seated under the rocker arm. Hmmm?


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:06pm
Thankfully after a bit of investigation a sticky valve has allowed the pushrod to drop sideways without causing any damage.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:09pm
some more photo's as its taken apart.......


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:11pm
Piston and Bore seem in really good condition.......


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:15pm
There was a huge amount of sticky oily mess over the bottom of the engine.... so into the parts washer, and its come up really good. Lots of original paint and virtually no rust!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:18pm
Think the sticky valve is down to a build up of carbon. The cylinder head and valves were quite badly coked up......


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:22pm
The valves after a clean on the brass wheel..... and a comparison between a BJ valve from a Gem with the Villiers valve from the Bantam...... 


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 05 Apr 2013 at 8:48pm
I would also appear that this Bantam may have been Mouse powered at some point, judging by what was found in the cowling......


Posted By: series V Ash
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2013 at 12:48am
hi darmic may be able to help you with rotor box ashgive me acall 07922128303


Posted By: daviddale
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2013 at 10:43pm
Hello, I have one of these machines myself, they have an overhead valve engine as opposed to the older more common side valve ones. Mine despite a strip down clean up and fresh oil etc good spark after a new coil too but engine does not turn as freely as I'd hoped, no damage or partial seizures as I can see or feel, but pulling it over is a bind, I have had it running for a few minutes at a time, but I need to get around to making a new throttle cable one day, carb end is just a tiny piece of solder, no nipple, how do I cast one on? I suppose I'll end up putting some copper wire around cable end and filling with solder, somehow,DD.


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Regards, David.


Posted By: Phil Somers
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2013 at 11:48am
[QUOTE=daviddale]Hello, I have one of these machines myself, they have an overhead valve engine as opposed to the older more common side valve ones. Mine despite a strip down clean up and fresh oil etc good spark after a new coil too but engine does not turn as freely as I'd hoped, no damage or partial seizures as I can see or feel, but pulling it over is a bind, I have had it running for a few minutes at a time, but I need to get around to making a new throttle cable one day, carb end is just a tiny piece of solder, no nipple, how do I cast one on? I suppose I'll end up putting some copper wire around cable end and filling with solder, somehow,DD.


Try here, you can build your own. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/motorcycle/controlcable.php%5b/IMG - http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/motorcycle/controlcable.php

Phil


Posted By: Stuart.
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2013 at 10:22pm
I make up all my own cables from old or scrap lawnmower / garden machinery cables.I "braze" (using oxy / acetylene equipment)nipples on the end of the cables as its much stronger than solder.In fact only yesterday i made a "new" clutch cable up for my 1985 Honda CR60R childs moto-cross bike as the genuine cables from Honda are NLA / obsolete.


Posted By: will_haggle
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 8:12am
I use universal bicycle brake cables, Wilkinsons sell them for about 1.14, they have a pear nipple on one end and a barrel nipple on the other. The nipples can be re-shaped, slid up the cable to where you want them.
I would advise against braze or silver solder for cables, the heat affects the temper of the cable and when I was running a Norton motorcycle the clutch cable used to break near the nipple where the cable had been weakened. Soft solder with an iron is best.

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6 months ago I couldn't even spell engineer - now I are one
Calne, North Wiltshire...


Posted By: Phil Somers
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 10:17am
Got to agree with Alan on the soldering. It does weaken the cables if you braze them, it was a definate no-no to make brake cables that way. Stick to soldering.
The only problem with universal brake cables is that they are normaly thicker than throttle cables and the nipples are bigger.
Phil


Posted By: Charlie
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 2:39pm
This link may be of some use http://www.venhill.co.uk/Downloads/Guidance%20for%20Cable%20Manufactur,%20Installation%20and%20Maintenance%20recommendations.pdf - soldering a cable niple

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'Don't force it! Get a bigger hammer'


Posted By: howardman
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 5:23pm
I have used mig wire clamped with those double screw electrical connector/joiners. I am working on a mark 15 ohv Villiers at present like yours darmic...any ideas how a new rocker cover gasket could be made? mine is shot and has covered the engine in oil.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 10:29pm
Get some gasket paper, Ive got various thicknesses from the bay in the past. Draw around the Rocker cover, then draw a parallel line about 4 or 5 mm inside the outer one. Then cut out with either a sharp stanley knife or some good scissors, voila!
Ive got to either make a new magneto back plate gasket or order a full set up for mine as there was an oil leak from that area.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 11:05pm
Decided to investigate the lack of spark today. Removed the Magneto coil, Condensor, Points etc..... all were absolutely covered in oil. Not suprising there was no spark really! These pictures show it after the clean up.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 11:11pm
Also cleaned up the flywheel and the rope starter too. Its all in remarkably good condition. I think this machine has been stored inside most its life, as all the parts are in so much better condition than my Gems were.
 


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 11:19pm
All back together, but still no spark. Tested the plug lead, nothing! Further investigation revealed the plug lead and cap are from a more modern engine, a silicone lead of the Unipart variety..... A test with the meter straight onto the coil and to earth reveals some electrical activity, but until I have a relacement copper lead and cap I wont know for sure if the coil and condensor are good enough for a spark to be produced. 


Posted By: jim beacon
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2013 at 11:53pm
Gaskets sets are available from Meetens in Gosport - got one for the Mk15 on my Auto Culto Junior last September. The set was made up whilst I waited, and they are happy to do individual gaskets.

Jim.


-------------
The Allen & Simmonds Register

http://www.g1jbg.co.uk/autoculto - http://www.g1jbg.co.uk/autoculto

For users of Auto Culto, Autogardener, Horticulto, Midgiculto and other Allen & Simmonds products.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 12:23am
Brilliant! Thankyou.......might pop down tomorrow, its only 45-60 minutes from me.


Posted By: wristpin
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 12:30am
Originally posted by Charlie

This link may be of some use http://www.venhill.co.uk/Downloads/Guidance%20for%20Cable%20Manufactur,%20Installation%20and%20Maintenance%20recommendations.pdf - soldering a cable niple


That's a good link with good advice. If the nipple is slightly countersunk and the splayed end of the cable filled with solder the splay can't close up and pull through. The wedging action of the splay is far more effective than just relying on the "glueing" of the solder. Can't beat good old Bakers soldering fluid for cables!
Central Spares used to sell a solder pot but I see that it has disappeared from the current catalogue. All the ones from UK sellers on flebay seem a bit expensive for private users and not too sure about ordering from Hong Kong!


Posted By: howardman
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 7:22am
I got mine running with a borrowed carb from a Howard 200...but must strip down and clean up like you have....must be oily behind flywheel. Will contact meetens for gaskets.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 9:43pm
Took a trip down to Gosport today, to Meetens. Have purchased most of the bits to get the engine up and running. I say most as I realised when I got home I had forgotten the Airfilter....... Will have to phone tomorrow to order one!
Here's my goodies.....


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 9:50pm
The good news was the Coil is good! It was tested and found to be working absolutely fine!!! A significant saving there.
The other good news is that they have Valve guides in stock, here is the new, against the old showing the crack, and a shot of the new guide fitted.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 9:57pm
Have been busy with the orange spray too..... Most the engine has been stripped, Etch primed and given a couple of top coats of colour.


Posted By: series V Ash
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2013 at 10:46pm
nice job to your lovely standard as usual keep it up


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2013 at 7:15pm
Hi Darren, heres a few shots of doner machine you can have.


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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2013 at 7:15pm


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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2013 at 7:16pm


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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2013 at 7:16pm


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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 11:09pm
Hi Gareth, that looks like a good source of parts, thanks! I will contact you when Im able to pop over.......


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 11:15pm
Done a little bit more yesterday, got the engine all reassembled, just need to finish the timing. Also got the cowling stripped, etch primed and painted.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 11:24pm
Been busy again this afternoon, finished setting up the engine timing. Tested by hand and am pleased to report a good spark! Reassembled, flywheel and tightened up, refitted the cowling and fitted the exhaust.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 12 Apr 2013 at 11:30pm
Here is a little video of the engine being test run. The carb and fuel tank still need overhauling, hence the fuel being syringed into the engine.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIYtEwTu5os - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIYtEwTu5os


Posted By: howardman
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 10:27am
Its looks grt...I didn't know that those "lodge" plugs are still available.....is there an advantage in using them?


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 12:59pm
Thanks!!! Ref the Lodge plugs, Meetens has boxes of New ones!


Posted By: Andy Frost
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 1:19pm
Originally posted by howardman

Its looks grt...I didn't know that those "lodge" plugs are still available.....is there an advantage in using them?


Certainly , in my opinion , for the machinery we do , they are vastly superior to any other plug.

Andy.

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Early Villiers Twostroke spares Always Wanted


Posted By: jim beacon
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 2:59pm
The older plugs definatly work better in two strokes - they have a glazed insulator nose, which means they are less likely to suffer from ashort circuit due to carbon build up. I had terrible trouble with new plugs in an Allen Scythe - it would only run for atound 40 minutes before the plug sooted up. Change for an old plug, and the problem went away!

Jim.


-------------
The Allen & Simmonds Register

http://www.g1jbg.co.uk/autoculto - http://www.g1jbg.co.uk/autoculto

For users of Auto Culto, Autogardener, Horticulto, Midgiculto and other Allen & Simmonds products.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 10:37pm
Got the carb all cleaned and reassembled this afternoon. All new parts now fitted. Have yet to get the air cleaner, a new fuel line and a replacement throttle cable, a job for next week.
Managed to clean up the tank brackets, etch prime them and get a coat of colour on, will need to collect another tin of colour to finish them and paint the tank


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2013 at 10:43pm
Can the Ewarts fuel taps be re-corked? This one has seen better days , still leaks despite the tank having liquid in for nearly a week.  How do you get the cork over the end stop? I cant see cork stretching over it!


Posted By: Charlie
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 7:29am
You can buy just the plunger with a new cork, my local garden machinery dealer stocks them. Note, cork is one of the materials not compatible with ethanol.

Old style spark plugs. Modern plugs are not glazed on the end and this is a problem in older engines. A modern engine with engine management never floods the engine with too much fuel but an older engine with carbs can and this contaminates the porcelain insulation as it is not glazed. (Information taken from Green Spark Plug company website).

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'Don't force it! Get a bigger hammer'


Posted By: Andy Frost
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 8:56am
Originally posted by Darmic1



Can the Ewarts fuel taps be re-corked? This one has seen better days , still leaks despite the tank having liquid in for nearly a week. How do you get the cork over the end stop? I cant see cork stretching over it!


Yes , they're dead easy to do. Select the correct size pin punch and carefully drive the plunger out from the head. Slide the old cork off , pop new one one , and reverse the procedure. Finish by carefully re-rivetting with a small ballpein hammer.

Andy.

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Early Villiers Twostroke spares Always Wanted


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 9:20am
Originally posted by Andy Frost

Originally posted by Darmic1



Can the Ewarts fuel taps be re-corked? This one has seen better days , still leaks despite the tank having liquid in for nearly a week. How do you get the cork over the end stop? I cant see cork stretching over it!


Yes , they're dead easy to do. Select the correct size pin punch and carefully drive the plunger out from the head. Slide the old cork off , pop new one one , and reverse the procedure. Finish by carefully re-rivetting with a small ballpein hammer.

Andy.
You can do that way but for a couple of quid you can buy a complete plunger assembly, which saves a lot of time. Charlie is right about the cork not being that sutible for ethanol, however ive found they last a reasonble time so long as you dont let them dry out, simply store the tap in a sealed container with some fuel in it over the winter months.(But do think about fire risk) I also find it worthwhile to soak the new plunger for a couple of hours before fitting.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 7:42pm
I think I will just order up a replacement plunger, it seems one small screw and its job done!


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 8:42pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

I think I will just order up a replacement plunger, it seems one small screw and its job done!
Yep, just be carefull with how soft the little screw is. I used to buy them in 10's off Midland Power machinery Distributors as they are the same as fitted to the earlier sufolks.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2013 at 8:44pm
If you dont manage to source the original type air filter i have today come accross the conversion kit to the red type villiers filter for that carb, would work well on the type of job youve got in mind.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 10:48pm
Ok thanks Gareth, will bear that in mind. Meetens were going to call me this week.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 11:15pm
Have found virtually no decals left on this machine..... There was the remains of a square black decal on the hinged panel below the plug and the remains of what might have been a Crest of some sort.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 11:38pm
Here's the remains of the Crest on the tank and its general condition before...


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 11:42pm
The tank after.......


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2013 at 11:44pm
Tank support brackets back on after a lick of paint


Posted By: Thomas
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 9:08am
That's a nice paint finish, what paint are you using?
cheers. Tom


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 12:30pm
Hi Tom, The paint I use is an 'iso free' 2pack paint made by ProXL. They are aerosol cans, colour is mixed and cans filled. The can contains a hardener which is released by pulling and twisting a ring. Shake the can to
mix, there is an adjustable spray nozzle, so for large areas you have the wide fan spray and narrow for smaller areas. The paint is fuel resistant and seems to be very durable. Although its not the cheapest paint available it seems the best I have found. The only draw back is once mixed, it needs to be used, it does however keep for about a week if kept in the fridge as I was advised yesterday.......


Posted By: Thomas
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 9:09pm
Leaves a great finish for a rattle can, thought it looked like a two pack finish, but didn't expect it out of a rattle can. Really gives it a top class finish.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 9:43pm
Thanks for the compliments. It is good stuff, but there is a lot of prep work under the final finish.......


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:08pm
To help protect the paint finish on the tank I have fitted some orange felt to the tank straps, secured with a small amount of impact adhesive. I have done this on both Gems previously on the tanks and it does the job.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:13pm
Here is the tank all secured, felt not even visable.....


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:21pm
Made a start on the engine mounting plate. Whilst stripping the old paint, discovered some stamped letters to indicate which bolt holes to use with which engines..... BS = Briggs and Stratton, V = Villiers and BSA = As is.......


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:27pm
Had a call from Meetens to say the replacement air cleaner is in. I have also ordered a replacement fuel tap plunger, a new throttle cable and a new fuel pipe. Should have them by the end of the week!  


Posted By: howardman
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:31pm
I restored an AC Bantam last year. But used the normal Howard orange tractor paint....which peels off with a whiff of petrol fuels...particularly disastrous on fuel tanks..so interested in paint info. I also adapted it to take a Briggs engine which was a lot of work. Seems much easier on your later type bantam.


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:32pm
Originally posted by Darmic1



Made a start on the engine mounting plate. Whilst stripping the old paint, discovered some stamped letters to indicate which bolt holes to use with which engines..... BS = Briggs and Stratton, V = Villiers and BSA = As is.......
[IMG]uploads/20130416_222124_048.jpg" height="612" width="816" />
Briggs and stratton were only fitted to american machines along with Kohler and Clinton. U.k had Villiers Mk25c and Mk15 also Bsa and AC120.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2013 at 10:38pm
Originally posted by Darmic1

Made a start on the engine mounting plate. Whilst stripping the old paint, discovered some stamped letters to indicate which bolt holes to use with which engines..... BS = Briggs and Stratton, V = Villiers and BSA = As is.......
Would I be right in that assumption though? I cannot think of any other explanation???


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2013 at 7:23am
Originally posted by Darmic1


Originally posted by Darmic1



Made a start on the engine mounting plate. Whilst stripping the old paint, discovered some stamped letters to indicate which bolt holes to use with which engines..... BS = Briggs and Stratton, V = Villiers and BSA = As is.......
[IMG]uploads/20130416_222124_048.jpg" height="612" width="816" />

Would I be right in that assumption though? I cannot think of any other explanation???
Quite likely, the holes do look somewhere near right for each engine spacing.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2013 at 9:11pm
Have now got the Engine mounting plate and front frame painted. I will probably not mount the engine to the tilting mechanism until I have the rest of the frame stripped and painted.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2013 at 9:18pm
The postman bought me some goodies from Meetens today..... All fitted, new Plunger for the fuel tap, new fuel line and a new original Coopers oil bath air filter. The new throttle cable also arrived but is slightly too short. A replacement will be manufactured as its not currently stocked using my old one as the template.


Posted By: Charlie
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2013 at 8:51am
Really looking good now. The air filter shows what a good stock Meetens hold or have access to.

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'Don't force it! Get a bigger hammer'


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2013 at 8:35am
Thanks Charlie. Yes Meetens do have access to pretty much everything and gives excellent service too!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2013 at 8:46am
I now have a question with regard to the age of this machine. I want to source the correct decals for it, but im not sure if its a Howard or a Howard Clifford??? There were virtually no decals left on it. There were the remains of a Crest on the end of the fuel tank and a black rectangular decal relating to the oil filling of the machine on the hinged panel of the engine shroud. The aluminium engine plate bears the Mark 15HS and the No 661B 19163.
Whilst the engine was apart I looked for a year stamp on the flywheel, but only found a '58' stamped between the cooling fins.
Can anyone help with dating this so I can get the correct decals for it?
Thanks guys
Darren


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2013 at 5:48pm
Hi Darren, ive had about 4-5 of the Bantams fitted with a mk 15 and on all but one the fuel tank had Howard-Clifford decals on the end, but one had the royal crest.

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: simar kid
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2013 at 6:02pm
darren fantastic job going on there,shes going to luck super great best of luck.

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Not sure whats wrong. i think we will let it develop


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2013 at 9:20pm
Cheers for that Gareth, this definately had the crest on the end of the tank and the one about being level when filling the oil..... but that was it, nothing else!
Thanks John, its not quite the mammoth task the Gem's were, but still a learning curve. I do want to use this one as it will be manageable on my allotment.


Posted By: hortiman
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2013 at 8:29pm
Hi Darren
My Mk15 has Howard-Clifford decals on ends of tank and black one on the hinged flap regarding oil filling.
You are making a superb job of that machine,seems a shame to use it !!
Chris


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"God speed the plough" Preferably on RED Diesel


Posted By: TITCH
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2013 at 9:59pm
Stunning Stunning Stunning Darren!!
 
All I can say on top of that is, Look out for your Post(person) Wednesday/Thursday!!
 
Titch


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Restorations Final Touch!


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2013 at 10:25pm
Thanks Chris, I know what your saying, but this one will have to earn its keep! The series 1 Gem is a much older girl and is retired from hard graft as the bits are harder to find now. But it will be a fully functioning exhibit.
Thankyou very much Titch, You didnt have too........ but thanks! Now go and enjoy your break!!!
Darren


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 3:55pm
Had a call from the Powder Coaters today, "Your bits for your rotavator are ready...." I only dropped them off Tuesday!!! Still that means my 12 days off will be spent in the garage......... Here's the frame for the Bantam in its component parts, all shot blasted and freshly powder coated.
 


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 4:01pm
The Postie also has brought good news today! Titch has been working his magic again...... In the form of a full set of Decals for the Bantam, including a new aluminium ID plate for the engine. Here are the full range of decals available for the Bantam.......
 


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 4:01pm
 Oooooops pressed enter twice!!!
 


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 4:08pm
I have decided to go with the Howard Clifford set of decals...... Just need to figure out the correct placement for them, as I only had the remains of 2 on it. The Crest will be on the end of the tank, and the oil filling instuction goes on the back of the engine.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 5:47pm
Im guessing that the 3 smaller Howard Clifford (red Bantam) decals are for the fuel tank, one on the end, and the other 2 next to the straps?? The large Howard rotavator one would I assume be for the soil flap??  The two larger Howard Clifford (black Bantam) decals would be for the rotor cover?? I know where the Crest and Oil filling one lives, but not sure where the yellow safety related one should go??
Does anyone have a picture or know where they should be placed please??? 
Darren


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 8:38pm
Yellow safety would not of been fitted. Originally the howard clifford would of been fitted to the tank ends where you found your crest. If using the two howard clifford decals on the rear tyne cover then the howard rotavator wouldnt of been used either.The engine must be level goes on the back of the air shroud that hinges round the cylinder. Wish i could get my blaster to blast my machine that quick, been waiting scice febuary for mine, getting a little bit sick of hearing " will definatley be done this weekend..."

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2013 at 11:08pm
Right, ok So no yellow one....... Which ones would be correct if the tank has the royal crest??? I have scoured the internet and not been able to find any pictures of Bantams with the decals in place! Help please???


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 10:05pm

Spent a hour or two in the garage this afternoon, re-tapped all the threads to clean off the excess powder coating, will make it a bit easier to reassemble. Then put the handlebars back together.



Posted By: howardhoe
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 11:32pm
You are doing a really nice job on this machine. I have a bantam in the shed with all sorts of problems and missing parts, hopefully one day i will get it to look as good as yours. I like the way you apply paint, i am going to see if anywhwere around here will do the same. Do you have to give a code?


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2013 at 11:55pm
Hi there, the paint code is BS592 and the Powder coat code is RAL2001.........
Hope that helps!
Darren


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2013 at 3:01pm
Hi darren heres the badge we spoke about for the side of the rotor sheild.


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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 11:09pm
Did a little job on the Bantam project as well today. The Throttle cable from Meetens arrived with the post this afternoon. Threaded the cable back into the handlebars, is a bit of a pain getting it back out at the top, but the trusty pick set proved its worth again. Refitted the throttle lever, and set about making a few gaskets, ready for when I need them.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 02 May 2013 at 11:09pm
Here is the rotor section that I purchased on the well known auction site. It was missing from the machine when I got it. This one is in really good condition with only a few dents on the rotor cover. Even the original decals are still visible. This one hasn't even cracked in the usual place..... I have got a plan to hopefully prevent said crack from appearing.



Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 02 May 2013 at 11:16pm
Have now removed the covers for dent removal. The front cover has a few dents from the inside, I will heat the metal using the blowlamp and tap it back into shape using the hammer and dolly. The small rear cover and soil flap are fine, just need shot blasting and powder coating.



Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 02 May 2013 at 11:21pm
The rotors themselves are in a good condition. All turns very easily by hand with no nasty noises. Im not going to strip this down, just remove the paint with a paint stripper, then clean up the surfaces with the wire wheel, a coat of etch primer and some top coat and that should be all that's required, Apart from an oil change.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 02 May 2013 at 11:29pm
Got all the dents removed from the front cover today. I then welded around the front of the depth leg support, this will I hope prevent the crack from forming in this area. As a precaution I have also welded between the factory welds. I didn't take any photo's of this as I was a bit pressed for time. The covers are now with the powder coaters, should be back in about 2 weeks as they are having a new blast cabinet installed over the bank holiday.


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 04 May 2013 at 10:02pm
I haven't done much for the last couple of days. My other commitments have taken over. Have spent a couple of days planting at the allotment, beans, peas, tomatoes, courgettes, cucumber, spuds and the list goes on....... Today is the wife's birthday, so breakfast in bed duties then shopping till lunch. Once home I have power washed the patio and path in the garden, also done the path at the front and the block drive. Then it was the cars turn, Whilst the wife was looking the other way I did the drive wheel section of the bantam. It was covered in a lot of oil/soil mix, which had dried into a hard crust! Here's a picture once cleaned.....


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 04 May 2013 at 10:09pm
I then "married" the rotors to the drive wheels. This was to check everything works before prep and painting. I am pleased to say all is good. One question I do have is, Should there be a gasket between the 2 sections on the drive tube? I cant see any way that would prevent oil leaking from this joint without one.....
 


Posted By: series1gem
Date Posted: 04 May 2013 at 10:41pm
Hi Darren just checked the book,there is a gasket, part number 20463,

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If it isnt orange it isnt a rotavator


Posted By: Darmic1
Date Posted: 04 May 2013 at 11:28pm
Cheers Gareth, I will knock one up on Monday.



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